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Twelve States 



AND A 



KINGDOM. 



By S. R. Kp>^: 



Watseka, Illinois: 
iroquois county times print, 

1878. 



?f^ 



To my mother, the one true sympathizer in 

every sorrow from youth to age, 

I dedicate this work. 

S. R. K. 



COPYRIGHTED -1878. 



PREFACE. 

MMHERE are certain mornings dawning so bright and glorious 
(f^ and so filled with inspiration that my feeble pen would fain 
grasp the hidden revelations in the air, to insure their portrayal 
to the few friends most appreciative. Of the many assayed but 
ineffectual attempts to reduce the chaos of iny thoughts to a state 
of fonn and completeness, I will not speak. But this February 
moniing of 1877, bejeweled with frost and encu-cled with sunshine, 
when apparently Spmig is negotiating with Winter for balmy air 
and budding foliage, comes an assurance fi'om the land of my 
bii-th that my literary eiforts have been appreciated by loving 
friends whose constancy has remained unshaken during the buf- 
fetings of twenty years and I am induced to commence a recital of 
my wanderings through "Twelve States and a Kingdom." The 
various guide-books compiled for the use of travelers l)y sea and 
land, have been the faithful pilots to point out to me the historical 
events herein mentioned and have stood as a lighthouse between 
me and error. Go little book! Under the flag of truth. I launch 
thee, trembling, upon the waves of criticism. Ere thou art 
entirely stranded amid the breakers of public opinion, may some 
few voyagers on the Sea of Literaturerhave derived a day's recrea- 
tion as they bask in the sunshine of the most pleasant details, or 
sail under the clouds of which their experience is perhaps a- 
counterpart. 



CHAPTER I. 

fHE centennial year is a thing- of the past and the anni- 
versary of the next centiuy will unfold its beauties to us 
only throug-h our spiritual vision. 

Thus ere the chirography of that happy event enacted at 
Philadelphia, becomes obliterated by that most prodigious of 
effacers, time, I hasten to chronicle my experience during my 
journey to, and sojourn amidst, the wonders of all climes, cast 
together under the broad canopy of heaven and sheltered under 
the municiiial wing of the Quaker City. A year's wi-inkles have 
gathered upon many a face since the final stitch was set in the 
garments prepared especially for this tour of the world. Those 
veiy gannents#that iiistled and shone with all the splendor of 
newmess, alas! have yielded up their brightness and lustre and 
become old. But, save the victims of war, temj^est, fire, riot and 
confusion, were this the centennial year, America's children and her 
foreign brothers and sisters would set forth with the same stream- 
ing banners of their nationaUty, independent and free, foitified 
with gold, silver and greenbacks to master the infinite sight of a 
century's growth. Among the many trials of Ufe, ranks foremost 
the making up of one's mind. If a person have decisiveness of 
character he is deemed fit to care for himself without adventitious 
aid. For a timid woman, an undertaldng like the overlooking 
of two continents, was no small affaii" to decide. Beuig fortu- 
nately circumstanced there was no crusty husband in the case to 
agonizingly grasp, the pocket-book and groan " economy or stai-v- 
ation;" but my indulgent partner lovingly lifted his eyes over 
the rim of his daily paper and met my suggestions for a summer's 
trip with a hearty approval. The fiat went forth. A woman had 



b TWELVE STATES A XI) A KINGDOM. 

made up her mind. When a female heart is set upon a journey, 
woe be imt him that seeks to thwart her calculations. My 
chaperon was "chosen, selected and sworn" not to disappoint 
me. Being- a prosperous memljer of the bar of our county he 
would not see my legal rights infringed upon and possessing 
extreme sociability nd sufficient knowledge of the important 
histronic events of the past, whose shadows we were soon to be 
cast under, and, understanding the transactions of the present 
he would be one in whose presence ennui would be unlmown. 
With his amiable spouse tucked nder one arm, the other resei-ved 
for my use in emergencies, I fancied perfect security awaitf.-d me 
throughout my proposed journey. Monday morning, September 
eighteenth. bS'iB, wa 1 e day fixed upon for our departure. 
While the sultry days of August did not deter our preparations, 
the cooler weather of September was hailed vnth satisfaction. 
At last everything had been reduced to a state of completeness. 
The go■w^l for stated occasions had been perfected and its owner 
initiated into the mysteiy of its secret folds. Of the comforts 
stowed in satchel and trunk no traveling public could complain. 
Everj' possible want had been anticipated. The last few days 
of our home stay began to pass heavily for our work was finished. 
The feminine portion of the cargo was ready to be shipped. Can 
I ever forget my feelings of almost childish dehght when my ticket 
was given me, that elongated talisman that was to be my guide 

from ' ' W to New York City and return ' ' which were the 

magical \v( rds engi-aved thereon. The various important places 
we were to touch were arranged like so many coupons measuring 
a half yard in length, and our imagination clothed them wth 
an interest rightfully their due. 1 entrusted this treasure (the loss 
of which would render me undone) to the most secret comer of my 
purse and breathed a prayer that some innate necromancy might 
sun-ound it and avert my sudden ejection from the cars at some 
lone spot for which my inclinations were not bound. The ap- 
pointed time drew near. Was there ever such happiness that the 
shadow of a doubt did not cloud? There was yet the i)arting 
from one I held most dear ere I could launch myself on this sea 
of prospective hai^piness. One sigh from the bosom 1 loved best 
to rest upon, ettectually vanquished my carelully constructed air- 
castles and I realized truly that home was the dearest ^pot on 
earth to me. I gazed upon my ticket as a fatality, and danger 



EASTWATM) HO '. i 

and endless separation seemed to be written upon each of its tags. 
During the decade of onr married years no such distance as this that 
threatened to loom between us had ever been dreamed of, and now 
I was the first to put hundreds of miles betwixt my idol and my- 
self. The dread encompassed in those last moments at home, will 
remain with me always and I can safely say, now, after a twelve 
months intervention between that sad period and the present, that 
I shall not voluntarily purchase another ticket which I am com- 
pelled to follow for a distance of a thousand miles without the 
presence of my husband. The luoniing- of the eighteenth of Sep- 
tember dawned at last. There was an early meal without an 
appetite; a solemn walk to the depot, a few more wretched mo- 
ments of waiting and the five o'clock train hunied into our quiet 
city. The steaming engine snorted and puffed as if to give vent 
to its overcharged feeUng, but such safety valves were denied me 
and I could only breathe and act with the caluniess of despair. 

While husband and wife bade a hasty adieu, Mr. and Mrs. B , 

my travelmg companions, cast furtive glances at our baggage lest 
the sleepy agent had neglected his duty and left what should have 
been aboard, behind. Of course some necessary ariicle must be for- 
gotten and Mrs. B— missed her parasol as the u-on horse gave a 
sudden pull and moved out of the station lea^ang his track and 
one sorrowful watcher far in the distance. During the eight miles 
ride to S where we were to leave the Toledo, Peoria & War- 
saw Railway for the Cincinnati, Lafayette and Chicago Railroad, 
the long suppressed tears flowed freely and I was glad my com- 
panions were busy with each other, that, unnoticed I might mdulge 
my emotions and perhaps feel better for the outburst. I dried my 
eyes as the cars came to a halt and said to myself, "Seraj^hema it 
is your duty now to compose yourself ." ' In less than an hour we 
were again on our way. Meeting a young acquaintance who 
seated himself opposite us, we were agreeably entertained on our 
way to LaFayette, Indiana, where he resided. His youth, com- 
bined with manliness, excited our admu-ation and his easy descrip- 
tion of persons and things in general, were signiiicant of rapid 
improvement and that his time had not been thus far wasted to 
have acquired so much useful knowledge ere the Rubicon of cast- 
ing his first vote is safely passed; I say safely passed because 
voting the triumphant Republican ticket as I am sure he will, 
indicates that the poUtical principles of this youthful editor, rest 



b TWKIA'K STATES AND A KIN(!I)()M. 

upon a sure foundation whose comer stone is, freedom. We laid 
hold upon his suf,'-^estion that we mal<:e the Park View hotel our 
stopping' place wlule in Philadelphia and regi-etfully parted his com- 
pany. Our trainmen dined at Indianapolis, but some of the pass- 
engers like our trio, skinnished in the mysterious comers of their 
lunch baskets for a repast of home preparing excelling all the sale 
edibles exposed to view. As we neared Cincinnati I was reminded 
by cornfields upon the hillsides, of dear, old New York, my own 
native state with its multitudinous hills and dales so pleasing to 
look upon. The western fanner, the owner of miles and miles of 
prairie so monotonous to the sight, might inwardly groan at the 
idea of constructing lines of stone fences across the hillside to keep 
the golden pumpkins from rolling away from their mother stalk, 
but how cheering to the tired traveler is the sight of the growing 
grain on the hilltops upon the one side while the clay colored 
water of the Ohio upon the other, discharges its vapor and becomes 
dew to moisten the ripening kemel. At this stage of our progress 
I bethought me of the tunnels we must pass through and I 
remarked that we ought to have been provided with lantems to 
light us through the dark places and no sooner had the words 
escaped me till, plunged in a deep cavem, the faces of my friends 
were no longer visible and we had need of the clairvoyant's vision 
to trace the character of the rocky wall that environed us. We 
emerged from the darkness with smiling countenances. Is there 
not an innate joyonsness implanted wdthin the heart of man when 
smiles, laughter and hilariousness are indulged in even amid the 
rushing of the car over rock, precipice and cataract that fro-WTi and 
appal as we joimiey hith(n- and thither as our restless inclinations 
bid. We reach Cincinnati at five P. M. Tlie omnibus takes us 
up a small rise of gi'ound and lands us at a pleasant dwelling 

occupied by a lady friend of Mr. and Mrs. B 's. We find our 

hostess so charming in manner, with a face and fomr to be loved 
and admired, and a disposition and management of home and 
(•liil(hfn to be emded, that we have but one regret: that is that 
our stay caimot be protracted to days instead of a few hours. After 
a refreshing supper we are introduced to a kind, elderly gentleman 
who evidently is not averse to the attractions of our widowivl host- 
ess, and who offers to show us as many famous sights in the City 
as can be seen in the short space of three houre, The statistics 
that 1 shall herein give are just as I was informed and if there are 



I STOdD 1 TON THE BKIDOE. 9 

eiTOrs in tliis narrative ascrilie them to hearsiiy as I cannot 
vouch for the truthfuhiess of all contained in these notes any 
farther than I can truly say I have perfect coniidance in my in- 
formants and believe they g-ave me the the best information they 
were possessed of. Already my artistic "jottmgs on the spot " 
have become so blurred that they are but imperfect helps in the 
formation of this record, and I must rely upon memory and her 
twin sister, inia"ination, for an intelligible recital. 



CHAPTER II. 

/rji^INCmNATI is situated on the north bank of the Ohio. It 
4cl' has a frontage of ten miles on the river and extends back 
three miles. The hills that surround it are about 450 feet in height. 
Its sceneiy is variegated and not equalled by any other city in the 
United States, so I am told. It is built upon two terraces, the first 
sixty feet and the second 112 feet above the river. More than one- 
third of its population are German, who reside principally in that 
portion of the city north of the Miami canal, which they have 
named '' the Rhine." It is an entirely ditferent oountiy '* over the 
Rliine," the German language alone being spoken and the signs are 
in German. Fu-st we' are taken to the bridge across the Ohio, said 
to be the longest span in the world, being eleven hundred feet. 
The entii-e length is two thousand two hundred and fifty-two feet. 
It might properly be called "the Viridge of sighs," both on account 
of its great proportions, and in commemoi'ation of the twelve 
suicides committed from its height. Leaning over its railing we 
peer into the waters made dark with the shades of eventide, and 
watch the frail boats move in subserviance to the strokes of the 
oar. Head-lights like stars glimmer here and there, and I muse 
on all the treachery that silent sheet of water contains and wonder 
if the souls of those departed ones are hovering near this dreadful 
2 



10 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGD(1:M. 

pliico from wliioli they took tlieir voluiit;in- fliyiit. II;ive the}' foniitl 
a better clime or are they wishinj;^ tlieinselves I)ack ag'aiii on this 
verj' bridt,''e from Avhioh they prefii)itate(l themselves i Death is 
soleirm when it is inevitable but self-destniction is terrible in the ex- 
treme. It is too tnn^ that there is an almost iiTesistible impulse to 
cast one's self into the water or from any great height, and from this 
mammoth stnicture, the tendency to destroy life may l)e aggra- 
vated considering that the misery of the three states, Indiana, Ohio 
and Kentucky, and the three cities, Cincinnati, Covington and 
Newport, wliich this point overlooks, may here be concentrated, and 
perhaps it is meet that some of the anguish may here find obli\aon 
in the watery gi-ave. We next visited the Probosco-Davidson 
fountain, also called the Tyler-Davidson fountain, one of the finest 
in the world, being all lironze and costing near $."»00,000. The 
work was east in Mimich. I held a little messenger in my pocket 
that I wished to speed on its homeward v/ay, and finding a proper 
place I deposited it safely with a silent wish that it might find the 
loved at home, distant two hundred and fifty mdes, not too weary 
already with waiting. But the hour of nine drew near and we 
must retrace our srteps and seek a comfortable place in the cars 
that must be om- lodging place for the night. No sleeping coach 
could be obtained and so it seemed that there were plenty of other 
people traveling ovch- the Baltimore and Oliio railroad, tired and 
sleepy and seeking rest b\it finding none. The first part of the 
night T had a seat to myself, but about thi'ee o'clock I was obliged 
to resume an upright position and make room for another unhapj>y 
female. I may as well say once for all that if one derived his 
liapi)iness from a crowd, the rail car at this period Avas the place for 
a full realization. Crossing the southern paii of the State of Ohio 
in the night, Tuesday morning breakfast foiuid us at Parkersburg, 
195 miles from Cincinnati. It is the extreme south- eastern part of 
the State of Ohio and is a city of ten thousand inhabitants. We 
have passed through five tunnels since leaving Cincinnati. At 
Parkei-sburgh Ave cross the Oliio river on a bridge one and one- 
tliird miles long. AAath six spans over the river and forty-three 
appi'oaching spans, completed in 1871 at a cost of over one million 
dolliu's. We agaui draw upon the lunch box for supplies with the 
exceptions of coffee Avhich Avas obtained from a can in possesion of 
a small boy who stood on a bank near the c:U' windoAV. At Grafton 
the mountain diAdsion of the road commences. This day is an 



FKASTIN(; ON ALLKGIIANY SCEJJKKY. 11 

epoch in our journey and enstamped on my raemoiy with life-long 
vividness. With mountain sceneiy for the eye and agreeable 
conversation for the ear we were doubly entertained. The magical 
words rang in my ears, "'we are crossing the AUeghanies." I was 
seated on the left side of the car, the one most favorable for an 
inspection of the grandeur before us, and my seat-mate was a 
social, candid gentleman who had familiarized himself with this 
mountain wildness and directed my attention to the various 
wonders, grand and subhme, as we flew along on the brink of 
destruction as it seemed. This day bears another noted event of 
my Ufe, the missing of mj'^ noon-day meal. Whether the Ipss of 
appetite was caused by the cun^atures in the road which rocked the 
cars like a boat tossed on the waves (the effect«of wliich we were 
told to counteract by the free use of lemons with which we were 
well provided) or whether the sublimity of my suiTOundings would 
not admit of the gross masticatory proceeding, I leave my readers 
to imagme for themselves, but true it is sandwich, chicken, pastry, 
frosted cakes, fruit and confectionery were alike devoid of their 
usual flavor, and 1 was filled witli contemplations of the infinite 
grandeur around me and might well exclaim "1 have meat that ye 
know not of." 

Eighteen miles from Grafton we strike Cheat mountains. We 
pass through the longest tunnel on our way, Kingwood tunnel, 
4,100 feet long and costing one miUion doUars; also Murray's 
tunnel 250 feet long. There is a cUstance of two miles between the 
two. Between Parker-sburgh and Deer Park, in Maryland, with 
its one hundred inhabitants, there are twenty-four tuimels. The 
nineteenth and twenty-fourth are the longest. Deer Park has an 
altitude of 2,700 feet. Here (iren. Grant was wont to pass his vaca- 
tions. During each succeechng summer's heat v/ill my mind revert 
to that lovely spot, Deer Park, on the top of the Alleghanies, with 
its grottoes, springs and green lawns and above all its fine air of 
which the denizens of the marshy prairies are denied. Two huge 
engines drew us to the top of the mountains and when the descent 
began the forward one ran ahead of the train at a frightful rate and 
as I gazed from the window and saw places where the road surely 
nuist meet a rocky termination 1 fancied the flying monster leaping 
from the track to find a lodging place only in the thm depths below. 
A feeling of fear came over me such as 1 had never felt before. I 
often ask myself the question, would 1 dare take the risk again? 



12 TWKIA'K STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

We were onkM-tninod with such tales as that once upon a time a 
certain eng-ineer and brakesman exchaiig-ed quids of tobacco while 
romidinf,'- one of the numerous curves in the road. I have heard of 
the meeting- of two extremes. I never saw a nearer verification 
than when our eng-ine saluted the final car of our train, (if inani- 
mate objects can enact a salutation) and at the speed we were 
going- one might well fancy our iron hoi-se endowed with nerve and 
sinew and muscle to thus obey the will of man who hath said as 
God spake to the sea "Thus far shalt thou go and no farther." In 
many places stray drops from miniature cataracts dashed upon us as 
we passed. Imagine a storm in that wild region when each tiny 
rivulet Ijecomes a mighty toirent. Laugliing cascades leap from 
dizzy heights and ^shing springs form innocent little brooks, that, 
as they munnur along their rocky bed. gather force and strength 
and develop into navigable rivers. Here is the fountain head of 
the Potomac that miles distant bears upon its broiwl bosom the 
vessel of war or the boat of the pleasure seekers. The dangers we 
feared were not far away and about two P. M. we were informed 
that farther progress was barred by a fearful chasm made by the 
washing out of a large culvert, and that in the abyss below were 
heaped cars of coal and that our transit must be made on foot over 
stones and planks laid on the now empty bed of the stream that 
must contain a rushing tide when the rains descend, and augment 
the waters to a destructive flood. The picture needs no fancy color- 
ing. Our suiTOundings were weird enough for a faiiy tale. It was 
estimated that two thousand persons were congregated in that 
mountain gorge. There were passengers from three trains of from 
seven to nine cars each, besides the workmen employed in repairing 
the break in the road. Our baggage wiis transferred Ijy the hands 
of the trainmen. A defile of a thousand persons through those 
lonely mountains, methinks is not a scene of frequent occurrence, 
but such a romantic experience was well woiih the delay. On 
reaching the eastern side, some seated themselves on the railroad 
ties, some on logs and stones; some climbed the mountain side by 
the aid of trees so thickly set they seemed to conceal every imagin- 
able danger. The sound of a pistol cut the air and cries of 
"Modocs" were raised to make the scene more temfying and add 
to our entertainment during the embargo. Many of the southern 
and western States were representcjd. A bride and groom from 
Oregon lent a chann to our novel position. Politics were not for- 



STANDING UP FOR OUR lUGlITS. V^ 

gotten in that isolated glen and a vote being taken a delegation of 
Democrats from St. Louis swelled a majority of two for Tilden. Old 
Sol was fast on the decline when relief came in the form of a pas- 
senger train from the east, and then ensued a display of selfishness, 
a conscientious historian may weU hesitate to naiTate — with the 
eastern passengers hurrying off to possess the cars we had vacated 
some three hours before, and the western watchers crowding on to 
secure seats, for we well knew there were not coaches sufficient to 
accommodate the waiting multitude. After every available space 
had been seized, even to the wood-box, the remainder seated them- 
selves in the aisle on their satchels, if they possessed them, if not 
they remained stanchng. It was a season of equal rights — the right 
to care for number one, and the heart of a president of a Woman's 
Rights Association would have bounded in her bosom to have seen 
stx'ong men clingmg to their seats mth the tenaciousness of despair 
while the fragile sex enjoyed ( V) the right of per])endicularity in the 
aisle with over-crowded bandboxes under their arms and convulsiv<> 
looking satchels in their hands, while the melee for even "standi?};/ 
room going on below would have necessitated the sendees of a 
chiropochst had not the conductor opportunely appeared demanding 
a sight of madam's ticket thereby opening a new channel of annoy- 
ance, and the f orns were forgotten long ei'e the eagei'ly sought for 
ticket came to the surface of one of those unfathomable hand-bags, 
when, as fast as one article is removed another flies in to take its 
place rendering a downward view impossible, and the contents 
must be removed piece by piece as the desired aiticle is sure to be 
at the bottom. But conductors survive and grow corpulent amidst 
such ever}' day occun-ences, and our sympatliies need not be exten- 
ded in their behalf. What bundles of magic conductors are ! Un- 
daunted by crowds they seem to peer into space to common mortals 
invisible, for imaginary seats, so intense is their desire to cater to 
the wants of the passenger. This model conductor was master of 
the situation. What he did with the uncomforfable crowd I know 
not, but soon there was no one left standing in the aisle and I was 
even allowed a seat by myself where half reclining, with my head 
to the open window, I was enaljled to catch not only a cold but a 
moonlight view of Haiiier's Ferry. The mountain that towered 
above us was all the more solemn in its midnight grandeur. The 
heavens were thickly set with stars which flashed out in all bril- 
liancy and were reflected in the placid waters of the Potomac and 



14 rV,'KI>YE Sr.VTKS AND A KTN'GDOM. 

Sheniuidoah rivers. One star falling from its dazzling h(^ight, was 
received on the bosom of the Potomac and forever lost. 1 longe(] 
for the day light that I might the better overlook a place so full of 
interest. "Point of Rocks" takes its name from a bold jjromontory 
which is fonned by the profile of the Catoctin mountains (a contin- 
uation of the Blue Ridge) against the base of which the Potomac 
i-uns on the Maryland side, the mountain towering up on the oppo- 
site (Virginia) shore, forming the other barrier to the pass." So 
we read. There seemed no limit to its height as I gazed out fi-om 
the car window as far as my eye could extend. T imagined rebels 
lying in ambush for our swift fljing train and luilf expected a band 
of greybacks to momentarily pounce upon us. 1 thought of the 
war that is ended, let us hope, forever, and prayed that o'er this 
region already twice battle scarred, the Angel of Peace would 
henceforth hover as she reigned this night in the mountain shadows 
or in the soft, stellar light from above. 



CHAPTER III. 

'E reached Wiushington our Nation's Capital, Wednesday 
moniing, September twentieth, at about three o'clock, tired 
and weary. We followed a sable guide to the Hillman House, the 
oi-iginal portion of which was built by George Washington in 1776. 
But at that hour in the moniing and not ha\ang seen a bed since 
we left home, our concern was not so much when and by whom the 
hotel was built, but whether it contained comfoi-table lodguigs. 
We were placed as near the sky as the roof of the building would 
admit, but as this was the centennial year I was prepared to under- 
go any amount of inconvenience, and to be astonished at nothing 
that might happen. My bed was clean and tolerably soft and I 

slept the sleep of the just, after Mrs. B had settled the question 

that her bed was not clean and that she had not left her downy 
couch at home to be entertained ( ? ) in Washington in such a 



there's MILLION'S IN IT. 15 

shabby style. The breakfast hour found me a willing compiler to 
its demands. The inner-woman satisfied I was ready to look about 
me. It did not take a close inspection of my room to discover that 
it was carpetless, and as my soles are extremely sensitive to any 

contact with bare floors 1 decided with Mrs. B in favor of a 

removal if no better quarters could be furnished us. The landlord 
seeing that we were practical people and not to be trifled with, 
accordingly placed at our disposal, large, handsomely carpeted 
apartments and we settled our baggage wth quite a homelike 
feeling and proceeded to take ourselves out for a day's reconnoiter- 
ing of the quiet city that sleeps so peacefully among its numerous 
parks. It seemed to me to be filled with echoes of the past which 
the minble of the street cars but h If awakened. I fancied the 
inhabitants living upon a perpetual inheritance that necessitated no 
care for future wants and left them at liberty to dream on uncon- 
cerned, save as to the passage of some bill that threatened to dis- 
turb the contuiuance of their rest, but which ev(Mitually was "laid 
on the table" — that convenient way of chsposingof all unpleasant 
matters a decision upon which might influence a voter in the wrong 
direction when the re-election period arrived. Their lethargy may 
be somewhat disturbed when the White House changes occupants 
or when the too vehement tones of some orator of the Senate 
Chamber, resounds through the silent halls of their dwelhngs. We 
Adsited the Treasury Department, just east of the White House. It 
is 582 feet long by IWO feet wide and cost six millions of dollars. It 
contauis two hundred roo u ■' of %yhi h the finest is the cash room. 
In the gold room there is usually about ten millions of dollars in 
gold coin, and may be seen by a pennit from the Treasurer. By 
the way we had a permit from tSeniitor Logan of Illinois to visit 
this building, and I will say that en our way to Washington we fell 
in company with a Mr. Davis an 1 Fon, from Cincinnati, whom we 
found very pleasant cnnj anion , and th y accompanied us during 
this day's pilgrimage around the city. The Executive mansion or 
the White House, is on Per nsylvania Avenue, one and a half miles 
west of the Capitol. It is of freestone, painted white, 170 feet long. 
<86 feet deep, two stories high. The east room is the grand parlor 
of the president, and to my eyes unused to such splendor, was fairly 
dazzling in its richne s. It is 80 feet long 40 feet wide and 20 feet 
liigh. The blue, red and green rooms are on the same floor. 
Owing to some repairs being made preparatory to the reception of 



16 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

Gen. Grant iind family, then at Philadt^lphia, we only saw the blue 
room. I felt disappointed at not seeinf^ a real, live president, but 
while we were inspecting (len. Grant's domestic appointments, he 
was holding a reception at the Illinois State building at Philadel- 
phia, it being New York's day at the centennial. T had made up 
my mind to shake hands and be friendly and neighborly wth 
Ulysses and Julia as their foi'merhome. Galena, is only about one 
hundred and fifty miles from old Iroquois, where a portion of my 
liringing up was undertaken. I shall have to be content with a 
view of Vice President Colfax, and an opportunity to take him by 
the hand (which I neglected however). I shall prol)aVi]y see a great 
many men that like him want to be president but it is not possible 
that any republic will stand long enough to gratify every man's 
ambition in that direction. 

The park south of the White House is lovely. In the center of 
the lawn is a bronze statue of .Jefferson. The conservatories are on 
the west of the mansion. Somewhere during the day's journey we 
visited a statue of Lincoln, erected by the colored people. The first 
contribution was five dollars given by Charlotte Scott, it being the 
first money she earned m freedom. This statue is at the end of a 
street car line, and while we sat on the curb stone waiting to be 
conveyed thither, we fell in with a lady and gentleman on their 
return from the centennial. They said there were many places of 
interest they had neglected to vasit but their stay could no longer 
be protracted with pleasure, and Avhile the tears ran down the 
brown cheeks of that young father he said, there was one sight yet 
in waiting for them, far surpassing all they had seen, and that was 
the darling faces of their littile ones awaiting their arrival home. 
How true ! What are worth all the results of man's inventive 
genius compared to the priceless jewels God sets in our homes, alas 
many of them only for a season, till they are recalled to form a 
<liadem of angelic beuigs, fit emblems of the glory of the eternal. 



OLOItlKS OK THE CAl'ITOl, 



CHAPTER IV- 

^^ll^HE chief attraction at Washing-ton is tlie (Japitol. I am 
f^ai^ inrlehted to "Appleton's Hand-book of American Cities," for 
the following description of the building. "The Caijitol is one of 
the largest and probably the most magnificent public building in 
the world. It crowns the summit of Capitol Hill, (90 feet high) 
and consists of a main building 352 feet long, 121 feet deep and two 
wings each 238 by 140 feet. Its whole length is 751 feet four inches 
and covers rather more than three and a half acres. The material 
of the central building is a light yellow freestone (painted white) 
but the extensions are pure white marble. The surrounding 
grounds embrace thirty acres embellished with fountains and stat- 
uary, and are known as east and west grounds. The main front is 
towards the east and is adorned with three grand porticoes of 
Corinthian columns. On the steps of the central portico are groups 
of statuary, and in front on the grounds is (ireenough's colossal 
statue of Washington. The bronze door which forms the entrance 
to the Rotunda from the east portico, was desig-ned by Randolph 
Rogers, cast by Von MuUer, at Muiuch, is seventeen feet high and 
nine feet wide, weighs 20,000 pounds and cost thirty thousand 
dollars. The work is in alto-relievo and commemorates the history 
of Columbus and the discovery of America. Each of the eight 
I^anels contains a scene in the life of the discoverer, and the statu- 
ettes, sixteen in number, between the panels and on the sides of the 
door represent the eminent contemporaries of Columbus. The 
Rotunda is 96 feet m diameter and 180 feet high. It contains eight 
large pictures illustrating American history, pauited for the Gov- 
ernment by native artists. The Dome rises over the Rotunda in 
the center of the Capitol. The interior measures 96 feet in 
cUameter and 220 feet from the floor to the ceiling. A spiral stair- 
way between the outer and inner shells afford easy access, and ;iii 

opportunity of inspecting the fresco painting on the canopy over- 
8 



18 TWELVE STATES AXD A KrXODOM. 

head. This is the work of Brumidi, and covers six thousand feet of 
space, and cost $40,000. It consists of a portrait of Washino^ton in 
a sitting posture. To his right is seated the Goddess of Liberty, 
and on tlie left a female fignu-e representing Victory and Fame pro- 
claiming Freedom. In a semi-circle is a groupe of females repre- 
senting the original sister colonies, hearing aloft a banner on which 
is inscribed the national motto (E Pluribus Unum.) Surrounding 
this tmdercircle are six groups I'epresenting Vv^ar,' x\griculture, 
Mecha.nics, Conmierce, the Navy and Science. All the figures, 
sixty-three in number, are of colossal proportions, so as to appear 
life size when seen from the floor beneath. From the balustrade at 
the base of the canopy is obtained a view of the city and suiTOund- 
ing country. ' ' You may well suppose us weary m body and limb 
when this height was reached. But what a gi-and spectacle met 
our view. The Potomac dotted with white sails that were mere 
specks in the tUstance beneath. Fairfax Court House was pointed 
out to us as being the nearest the rebels got to Wasliington, and 
the Metropolitan Methodist Church as being the house in whicli 
Grant worshiped regularly each Sabbath day; also Howard 
University, which was founded in 1867, for the education of youth 
"without regai'd to sex or color" but its students seven hundred in 
numl^er, are nearly all negroes. The Dome is three hundred I'eet 
high, and the streets of the city center from it. "Tlie old Hall of 
Representatives (now used as a National Statuary Hall) is the 
noblest in the Capitol. Light is admitted through a cupola in the 
center of the ceiling. Over the south door is a statue of Liberty, 
and an eagle, over the north door a statue representing Histoiy 
standing m a winged car, the wheel of which, by an ingenious 
device, forms the dial of a clock. In 1864 the Hall was set apart to 
receive statues ofemment Americans; each State being requested 
to send statues of two of its most eminent men. Moran's painting 
of the "Gmnd Canon on the Yellowstone," further adorns the Hall. 
"We visited the present Hall of Kepresentatives, the finest legislative 
chamber in the world. The Senate chamber is smaller than the 
Hall of Kepresentatives, and is reached by the corridor leading 
north from the Rotimda, while the Hall of Representatives is south. 
"The Supreme Court r'oom, (formerly the Senate chamber) is 
reached by the corridor leading north fro;n the Rotunda. It is 
decorated with busts of the lonner Chief Justices. The Libraiy of 
Congress was founded in 1800, was burned by the British in 1814; 



THE FEDERAL CITY. 19 

was ag-ain partially Vuirmnl in ix'A. and went into its pre^?ent room 
in 18o3. The collection, the largest in the United States, numbers 
nearly P>00,000 volumes, and increases at the rate of ten or fifteen 
thousand volumes yearly. All copyright hooks are by law required 
to be deposited in this library." We had a distant view of the 
Soldiers Home, (for disabled soldiers of the regular army). We 
read that a piii-k of 500 acres svuTOunds the buildings, and that it 
has been the custom of the Presidents, since Pierce's administra- 
tion, to occupy one of the smaller buildings of the Home as a 
summer resort, and here President Lnicoln passed some of the last 
hours of his eventful term. From the Dome we had a view of the 
Arlington House, once the residence of George Washington Parke 
Custis, the last but one of the Washington family. It was later 
occupied by Gen. Robert E. Lee. Near the place two thousand one 
hundred and eleven unloiown soldiers are buried. The bodies were 
gathered after the war from the battle fields between Bull Run and 
the Rappahannock. Neiu-this is an amphitheatre with accommo- 
dations for seating five thousand persons, where are held the annual 
services of Decoration day. The graves of the white soldiers are 
separated from the colored troops and refugees, by a distance of 
over a half mile. Wasliington is situated on the north bank of the 
Potomac, and covers an area four and one half miles long by two 
and one half l.>road. Gen. Washington, if not the actual chooser of 
the site, had it selected through his agency, and it was he who laid 
the comer stone of the Capitol, September 18th, 1793, seven years 
before the seat of Government was removed from Philadelphia, and 
eighty-three years before our journey to the Clentennial commenced. 
Tlie city was laid out under Washington's directions, by Andrew 
EUicott. Washington desired it christened the "Federal City," 
but its pi'esent name was conferred on it September 9th, 1791. 
' 'The sessions of both Houses begin at noon and usually close before 
sunset, but sometimes they are prolonged far into the night. A 
flag displayed over the north wing of the Capitol indicates that the 
Senate is in session; over the south wing, that the House is in 
session. If sittings are held in the night the great lantern over the 
Dome is illuminated affording a light visible for many miles." No 
inferior buildings, like weeds, crowd out the great flower of the 
Capitol. It blooms on dispensing a fragrance which the whole 
nation may inhale. As I sat upon its broad steps I realized that I 
was sheltered by a home of our forefathers building ; under a roof 



20 TWELVE STATES AXD A KINGDOM. 

whose capncioiis width and breadth would admit and welcome the 
coming- of each child of our beloved republic. The lovely day drew 
to a close, and we were glad to seek our commodious quarters at the 
Hillman House. We were prepared to do ample justice to the 
excellent supper awaiting us. The brisk waiters, whose dusky 
powder was wan-anted "to wash," met our demands for fresh 
supplies of steak and potatoes, with gi-ins of delight, but I should 
not be surprised to hear of their groaning in anguish ere the season 
was over, if the on-coming tourist took up our march where we left 
off with alike voracious appetite. One old darkey smiled out loud 
when 1 told him hot water was my chief beverage. On our way 
from the dining hall to our rooms, we stepped into the cheerful 
parlor to see what attractions it might possess, and to inquire 
whether all the sight seeers were as tired as we were. "We were a 
jolly set of tramps, and recounted our encounters to each other with 
the familiarity of acquaintances of long standing. We entirely 
forgot our weariness when Mrs. E gave us a lively instrumen- 
tal piece on the piano, and sang in her sprightly jjleasing manner 
"Is this croquet V" T contributed my feeble mite in the shape of 
an old song, to the musicale, but on being requested to render 
Moody and Sankeyism T resigned my place to an elderly lady, fat. 
and fifty, I should judge, Avith more religion in her soul than music 
in her voice. A tall, lean woman supported the right wing, and a 
long, gi-ey-whi.skered, colporteur looking man in spectacles, drew 
up at the left, while their miscellaneous friends brought up the 
rear, and there they howled, their cracked, squeaky voices seeming 
to penetrate the very walls, which was enough to disturb the spirit 
of George Washington, had it been hovering near his fonner abid- 
ing place. The pnous looking man, gazed in vain over and under 
his spectacles at the notes, that, judging from the quavering 
manner in which he rendered them, must have danced around right 
lively before his faltering vision. We left the room but the din 
followed us. We sought our couches only to dream that we were 
being serenaded by a band of Choctaws, with Moody and Sankey 
at their head as chief scalpers. Just what hour they laid down 
their note books, and returned to camp, I can not designate, but 
out of a heavy sleep I awoke to the consciousness that another 
beautiful day had dawned and the mysteries of Mt.Yemon awaited 
us. 



SACRKD MT. VEENON. 21 



CHAPTER V. 

I'iMHURSDAY morning, September tweiity-flrst, I set my foot 
^y on board a steamer for the iirst time. T had oftentimes 
meditated what my conduct would be on taking such a step, but 
when the decisive moment arrived I walked courageously aboard, 
and took my seat with all the steadiness of an old tar, and with 
as much unconcern as if I had been a sailor's wife for years, 
instead of never having been out of sight of land hi all my life, 
and never venturing in a row boiit but once, where I became so 
frightened with the water at a depth of two feet that I 
threatened to throw myself overboard if 1 was not taken ashore 
instanter. But this Mt. Vernon boat seemed so safe, and the peo- 
ple looked so happy, that surely danger must be confined to the 
depths of old ocean. As the band of harp and violins struck 
up, coiibined with the easy graceful s-wing of the boat, my soul 
awoke to joyousness, arousing my musical faculties and I was 
almost tempted to vie with the angel G abriel in song, or keej) step 
ui a dance with the fairies that lightly sport on the waves. Alas! 
for the awakening. I am still but clumsy humanity with voice 
weak and feet sore. While the strains of the sweet music are 
echoing o'er the the waters and I am indulging m visionary spec- 
ulations as to the height of the blue heavens above or the depth 

of the blue waters beneath, more practical Mrs. B . intercepts 

the further progress of a rent in her glove by a " stitch in time " 
and is not troubled with the thought that while railway accidents 
may perhaps but set death's door ajar, the fatality of a steamboat 
explosion opens the hidden portals wide to the beauties of the 
immortal. The sun's glance, nor the wind's breath deter me from 
the enjoyment this trip aflbrds. Among' our passengers is a poor 



22 T\Vlir,VE STATES AND A KrN'(i I)()>r. 

man with but one eye. How is he to take in the manifold beauties 
that everywhere present themselves. I have need of an extension 
of visual orb, and could not bear the curtailing' of a single ray of 
light the windows of m.y soul are wont to refresh me with. The 
banks of the Potomac are low and its waters much discolored -with 
recent rains. Alexandria meets our view and the hotel where 
Col. ICllswortli met his death is pointed out to us. We pass Jones' 
Point while the band insists that '" We shall meet on that beauti- 
ful shore." This delightful song is followed by " Dixie," and I 
feel all the old war spirit ui)on me. "The flag with one star " is 
counter- balanced l»y ''The star spangled banner," and North and 
South had no reason to complain of the diversity of music — its 
inspiring sentiments being adapted to both sections. Fort. Wash- 
ington is passed and we reach Mt. Vernon fifteen miles below 
Washington on the Virginia side of the Potomac. Shall I ever 
forget the sight of that long, solemn looking procession, as it 
wended its way up the gravelly hill — while the guide at its head 
repeated words that revealed to us the silent mysterii^s of this 
sacred ground. It was a time fit for the chanting of holy 
anthems o'er the graves of past events. Though their heroes 
slept, their deeds yet spake and the air seemed filled vpith the 
"spirits of just men made perfect," saintly conpanions of the 
revered Washington. We pause before the entrance to the tomb. 
Men lift their hats, women bow their heads to pay homage before 
this plain, solid brick structure with gate of iron, through which 
we gaze at the marble sarcophagi containing the remains of 
George and Martiia Washington. Some cast flowers inside the 
gate and all march away saddened but purified by this short com- 
munion with the dejjarted. The Mt. Vernou domain includes the 
mansion and six acres. Georg'C Washington inherited it in 1752. 
The central part of the mansion, which is of wood, was built by 
Lawrence Washington: the wings by George Wa,shington. From 
his death up to 1856 it remained in possession of his descendants. 
At that period it was purchased for the sum of $200,000 raised by 
subscription, under the auspices of the "Ladies Mount Vernon 
Association," aided by the efforts of Edward Everett. It is there- 
fore the property of the nation. It is impossible for me to describe 
all the ancicMit memoirs there collected. There is the key of the 
Hastile. prest'nted by Lafayette; military and personal furniture of 
Washington, centenary chairs, and on the second floor, small, cosy 



GKRKTIKfi OUK FRIENDS. 23 

looldiig bedrooms contiiiniiig little else than the inviting herl, and 
on the doors were names of ditterent states. My curiosity was 
much excited as to the meaning of this and all my investigations 
concerning it have proven fruitless. We entered the room where 
Washington breathed his last breath. A fac simile of the bed- 
stead and drapery are there, the original having been removed 
from necessity as a too curious pulilic were candying them away by 
pieces as souvenirs. I sat at Washington's favorite window and 
looked out upon the landscape that years ago refreshed his weaiy 
eyes after hours of mental labor, planning for the safety and pros- 
perity of our government. Our boat load so filled the house that 
the small rooms were almost suffocating. It was a relief to breathe 
the fresh air on the lawn in front of the mansion overlooking the 
Potomac. What perfect rest there was under those grand old trees 
and what fragrance was diffused ffom the Avell-kept greenhouse. 
We paused under a magnolia tree planted by Washington's own 
hand. We were forbidden to pluck the leaves from the branches, 
but might gather the fallen ones, and how eagerly we sought 
among the green grass for the beautiful fohage of this wondrous 
tree. Not finding a leaf myself, a fellow traveler presented me 
with one which I treasure as a precious momento of the Father of 
our Country . We drank the clear, cold water from the deep old 
well whose cui'b was sheltered under a porch and guarded by an 
old colored man, who drew up the crystal beverage for every one 
that thirsted. He showed us a row of low. one stoiy buildings 
which in the days of our republic's infancy were the quarters of the 
negro servants belonging to the Washington estate. The lunch 
prep)ared in our western home not yet being exhausted, Mr. and 
Mrs. B and myself chose a cool spot under Washington's favor- 
ite oak, from which to take our mid-day meal. I gathered pebbles 
from a miniature gulch worn near the roots of the historic oak, and 
have since placed them among my few treasures at home. The 
magnoha leaf adorns the portrait of Lincoln, and when my thoughts 
would grasi> the glory of two such benefactors of our country, 1 
glance at the picture and its faded green leaf upon the wall of my 
dwelling. As we were masticating our food and ruminating upon 
the i^ast and present, we caught sight of an advancing host that 
had but just landed, and soon were greeting the welcome faces of 
our western friends, faces now so begrimed with the smut of travel 
that they were scarcely recognizable, save by their smiles accom- 



24 TWKLVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

panied by hearty hiiTul-shakliiji-s. Bat the hour for the departure 
of the fir.'^t boat drew near and each passenger atragg-led down to the 
boat-landing' as best suited his incHnations, and when the signal 
was given we were all on board ready to depart. Shades of Mount 
Vernon ! I have sometimes heard the exi^ression used in jest. To 
me the words will ever suggest a day replete with a subdued, holy 
happiness, a day that was as an oasis in the desert of life — sueh a 
day as comes only to those who by work and toil know how to 
appreciate calm and quietude. 



CHAPTER VI. 

ME left Washington Friday morning, September 22d. for 
Pliiladelpliia. Our last night's stay saw the Hill man 
House filled to overflowing, and even the parlor floor was covered 
with sleepers. The rail cars are no better, and we jam into our 
seats. The coaches are very handsome on this line, the arms of the 
seats shining like silver. I begin to doubt the propriety of buying 
a return ticket, considering the manner in which I am jostled from 
side to side, sometimes nearly submerged by the crowd, there will 
be nothing left of me to get home with the. last tag of my ticket. 
My seat mate between Washington and Baltimore was chief repi-e- 
sentative of a race of taciturn people, (which race it is to be hoped 
will become extinct before the next centennial anives). We 
dashed by so many beautiful things that 1 longed to know just 
where we were, but if I ventured a query his moroseness chilled my 
inquisitiveness, and I left him to his morning paper, but oh how I 
wanted to speak my mind. He wore good clothes and feigned city 
airs. He no doubt thought T was from the country, in my sober, 
sensible linen suit. Well, I was from a region where people are 
taught courtesy and affability. Lacking these qualities no person 
need simulate the true gontli'uin-n. We saw tracks of the late army 



OFF FOIt BALTIMOKE. 25 

throng-h Maryland. After a two hours vide we reached Baltimore, 
distant from Washington thirty-eig-ht miles. It is situated on the 
north branch of the Patapsco river, fourteen miles from its entrance 
into Chesapeake Bay. The Baltimore and (.)hio Road possesses the 
interest of having been the theatre of some exciting scenes during 
the late civil war, it having suffered severely by the destruction of 
its rolling stock, track and bridges. As we jjassed through Balti- 
more I thought of a certain father residing within its precincts, who 
sent out his two sons to battle with life, well fortified with this 
worlds goods ; the one met with an early death — the other with 
moral destruction — the latter fate to be the most lamented. Our 
train was rolled tln-ough this city by attaching horses to the cars. 
Seven horses drew two cars while the lash was not spared. The 
streets are narrow, the houses dirty and dingy. In front of a 
clothing store I saw a live individual standing beside a dummy 
that was arrayed in fine raiment and I thought the knobby count- 
enance of the headless man quite as exi)ressive as the other. 
Chesa.peake harbor was full of boats. It finally took seven large, 
eastern horses that would flounce down in our western sloughs, to 
draw one car up the grade. It is not often one has a buggy ride 
on the cars. I think I have the countenance of the average south- 
erner very well impressed on my memory. Suffice it to say it is 
black as the blackest in the emancipated race, specimens of which 
thronged the streets of Baltimore, and in the white race among 
the lower classes, red predominates and blank ignorance stares you 
in the face. Perhaps we are too much governed by our prejudices 
in comparing different localities. I have no doubt but what this 
city that evidently puts its worst side oat to the railway traveler, 
has many cultivated citizens dwelling in grandeur and who utilize 
tliis colored element in their offices and households, but I should 
want the waters of the Chesapeake to ovei-flow them even forty 
days and forty nights before 1 made a valet or cliief cook of any of 
the specimens I saw. 

Humanity is well balanced. Selfishness, egotism and pomp- 
osity on the one side and affability and Idndness on the other. I 
wiU sell out cheap whatever interest I may have in ' ' My Maiy- 
la,nd." Some parts of the state reminded me of the sloughy, 
shrubby land of my own county. A vote is taken on the cars at 
this point, and the name of Hayes is heard on every hand. The 
result is fifty-three for Tilden and" one hundred and thirty for 

4 



26 TWEI.VK STATES AVI) A KrXODO'.f. 

Hayes, and this in a sontlu'rn fountry filled -witli Democrats. How 
my cheek burned with shame to be passed in(h'ttl'rently l)y without 
being tusked for an expression of opinion as to who should be ruler 
over a nation women lielp to uphold. The Susquehannah river 
empties into the beautiful (Chesapeake Bay at Havre De Grace. 
We cross the river on a bridge nearly a mile in length. After so 
much rain all the waters are of a clayey color. Delaware is a 
lovely little State with many fine sites for building. Deleware Bay 
is an enchanting sheet of water. Four miles from Newark the 
train crosses the famous Mason and DLxon's line, long the bound- 
aiy between the Northern and Southern States. Wilmington is 
the chief city of Deleware. Chester, fourteen miles from Phila- 
delphia, is the oldest town in Pennsylvania, having been settled by 
Swedes in 164;?, and four miles from it, is the Brandywine, famous 
for the battle fought on its banks in September, 1777. When we 
are witliin thirty-five miles from Philadelphia, a train of palace 
cars pass us, having left Washmgton an hour after we did. Its 
splendor flashed upon us as for a second and was gone. At two 
and a half o'clock, P. M., we reached Philadelphia, distant from 
Baltimore ninety-seven miles, and from Washington one hundred 
and thirty-five miles. We have now traveled nine hundred and 
sixty miles since we left home. We take a carriage and ride a 
distance of three miles to the Park View Hotel, situated on the 
comer of 29th and Poplar streets, opposite Faimiount Park with 
its lovely three thousand acres. We enter the hotel parlor and 
negotiate vrith the propiietor of the establishment for a week's 
board and lodging. Owing to the foolish desire of humanity to all 
visit the centennial show at the same time we did (and it was 
estimated that there were then one himdred thousand visitors in 
the city) we were glad to be shown a small room, the floor of wliich 
was covered with matting and the furniture of pine, painted a 
light color, and consisting of two bedsteads, one wash-stand, a 
table and two chairs, all new, however. A dividing line between 
the two beds was fonned by a white screen that, had it been 
painted green might have been an indication that inside was kept 
a " sample room," or what means the same thing — a place where 
beer and high-wines are dealt out. 1 chose the birth behind the 
screen in case of an invasion by burglars I might readily find 
shelter in the closet opening at my right hand. For the use of 
this coop we were each to jiay one dollar per day, our meals to be 



TIIK CRNTKNXTAL T! ATKS AJAR. 27 

served on the European plan. Our trunks were brouf,rht up and it 
was the first sig-lit we had had of them since leaving home. They 
answered well the purpose of seats though they filled up the space 
to such an extent that there was not sutRcient room left in which 
to oscillate a feline; that difficulty was overcome however, as like 
one of Dickens' characters we had no occasion to swing a cat. 
We were now in a land where musquito nets were unused and it 

was the evenuig duty of Mr. and Mrs. B , the one armed with 

a slipper while the other held a lamp, to lay- siege to the few buzz- 
ing insects that sat ujjon the walls of our fortress. Entrenched 
behind my screen I could overlook the works with all the security 
of a quarter-master, who has naught to guard but clothing and 
rations. On our way to the hotel the carriage was crowded and 
our ears were regaled with the varied experiences of the company. 
Some had sat in a depot all night being unable to find rooms. One 
train, coming in from North Carolina, had tipped over and three 
cripples from the wTCck helped to fill the conveyance. I felt as if 
life hung by a thread as I gazed at their bruised heads and the 
crutches by which they must be supported while "domg the cen- 
temiial." 



CHAPTER VII. 

^^ATURDAY mommg, September 32d, I arose before six o'clock 
(^^ but owng to a want of appetite, caused by excitement, ate 
but sparmgly of breakfast in the large dining haU of the Park 
View House. We thought we were the early birds to catch the 
first omnibus out to the Exhibition grounds, one mile distant, but 
we found several heavily laden hacks and numerous burdened street 
cars had already jiroceeded us. "The Exhiljition buikhngs are 
located in Fairmount Park at the head of Gkard Avemie, which 
leads directly from the heart of the city to the main entrance. The 
grounds embrace 236 acres with an average elevation of over one 



28 t\v1':lvk states wn a K'iN(;i>o>r. 

liuiulrod feet iibov.^ the a'ljacent Schuylkill. The PeniiNylvania and 
Readin^f Railroad each have iin immense depot adjoiuing the 
grounds, and as the tracks of these roads connect with eveiy other 
line enteiing' Philadel])hia. \isitors aniving by rail are landed at 
the gates ■^vithout change of cars. There are seventeen entrances 
to the exhibition grounds. The fii-st of the buildings reached com- 
ing from the city is the main building, costing one million six hun- 
dred thousand dollars, and is one thousand eight hundred and 
seventy-six ft^et long, and four hundred and sixty-four feet wide, 
covering an area of nearly twenty-one and one-half acres. Towere 
seventy-five feet high rise at each corner of the building." In con- 
structing the building thei-e were used eight million pounds of 
iron, besides glass and wood. In order to see the sights in this 
wonderful structure eleven and one -third miles must be traversed. 
The total cost of the Centennial Exhibition is estimated at eight 
million five hundred thousand dollars. There are seventy-five 
acres of ground under cover within the main inclosure, being an 
excess of twenty-five acres over the Vienna Exposition grounds. 
The last named Exposition exceeded this in cost by one million 
three hundred and fifty thousand dollar.-:. Ten millions of visitors 
were estimated as attending the Philadelphia Exposition, while the 
attendance at Vienna, was seven million two hundred and fifty- 
four thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven. There were seventy 
thousand exhibitors at Vienna and sixty thousand at Philadelphia. 
My pereonal experience at tliis gi-and .show that can come but once 
in a life time, is as follows: On reaching the inclosing fence wliich 
is three miles in extent, we entei-ed at one of the seventeen entrance 
gates. Additional entrance gates are provided for the exclusive 
use of employees and those entitled to free admission. It being- 
Saturday the admission fee was but twenty-five cents. On enter- 
ing the main building I could not repress a sigh born of the 
thought — is one hie of sufficient duration to master so prodigious 
a sight? but, my dear readers do not be alarmed for I am not 
going to recount a millionth part of what I saw. No tongue has 
the loquacity to utter praises, no pen the mightiness of portrayal, 
no one mind the comprehensiveness to grasp the intricacies of this 
wonderful cond)ination of beauty, utility, gorgeousness and gran- 
deur. The .Tapanese contributors to the i)anorania seemed to have 
Jinticipated the hot season by sending fans of ;ill shapes and designs, 
which first attracted my attention. I find the first memorandum 



TREASURES OF TIIK X'RAL MOUNTAINS. 29 

on my note-book was made while I was sojourning- in Nonvay, ami 
is in commemoration of the marriage of a Norwegian coui)le. The 
figures were so true to life that I supposed myself standing beside 
breathing creatures, tiJl I became aware that they were the center 
of attraction in that vicinity, and a closer scrutiny revealed their 
inanimateness. Then there were Swedish groupes, one represent- 
ing a mother pleading with the father for their daughter's lover, 
who stood Ijashfully in the corner awaiting- the result of the inter- 
cession. In Australia was a gold monument representing thirty- 
five million dollars. I noted a wingless bird from New Zealand, 
that existed before the island was inhalnted by man. Then there 
was the Moa bu-d now extinct — a coin twenty-six hundred years 
old — stones from Solomon's palace — crocodiles and stuffed animals 
of all descriptions. I saw a diamond necklace worth thirty-five 
thousand dollars — an adjustable sleeping apartment resembling a 
trunk, shutting up in a very small compass, and costing tw^o hun- 
dred dollars ; a bed-stead seemingly wrought of fine gold, worth 
twelve thousand dollars ; a small Malachite ta,Vile, price two thousand 
four hundred dollars. I take the i'ollowing description of this one 
from a little tract that was given me while I was admiring the 
beauty of the tables of green and blue. "Malachite, Green Carbon- 
ate of Copper, emerald-green, hghb and dark green. Found only 
in the Ural mountains, in the mines to a depth of six hundred feet. 
These mines being under water, have not been worked since the 
last twenty years. Lapis Lazuli. Azurestone, Ultramarine, Lazure 
blue in all degi-ees of the height, found in granite and granular 
lime stone in Sibena, at the Baikal lake, and in Bucharic. The 
price thereof has enormously risen in the last years up to one 
hundred rubles per pound. Ultramarine, the most precious color 
is made thereof. It is used for inlaid work and jewelry. Porphyry 
is found at Tazilck, in the Ural mountains, and at Olonetzk in 
Northern Russia. The above are specifically Russian stones, which 
at public request, have been described. There ai-e still the Siber- 
ian Amethyst and smoky topaz, wliich are the most precious and 
beautitul. These stones can be ground and cut only v/ith emery 
and diamond dust, and it requires an amount of patience, only to 
1)6 found in a Russian workman, and tlie manufacture thereof may 
well be tenned one of the most ungrateful occupations. This is 
perhaps, why there is no competition. Among others we have 
exhibited a pair of small Nephirte vases, the grinchug ot which 



;)0 T\VKI,VK STATKS AM) A KIXCDONf. 

■jlonc riHiuin':! livi' iiujiiths tiiiio." I scaively knew which to 
admire most, the tables of l)hie or green, but their prices put them 
all beyond my reaeh. Tliere was a mantle-piece of Malachite 
inlaid with .hisper and other precious stones, valued at six thoa- 
sand five hundred dollars, jjarge Malachite vases in Etruscan and 
Roman styles, worth four thousand five hundred dollars; a piece of 
Malacliite weighing one thousand and eighty pounds, whose value 
was four thousand eight hundred and sixty dollars. Tiiere were a 
pair of vases of Lapis Lazuli at two thousand dollars. It would 
require a palatial residence of uuicli spaciousness to be adorned 
with these mannnoth vases without the ornaments appearing bur- 
densome. There were various tables with solid gilded bronze legs, 
valued from one hundred and twenty to two thousand four hundred 
dollars ; also a variety of clocks, albums, jewelry A:c., all from 
Hoessrick & Woortiel of St. Petersburg, Russia. Tliere was a 
Spanish building so real, one might fancy himself in the streets of 
Spain. "Eg.vpt, the oldest nation in the world, sends Soodan its 
morning gi-eeting to the youngest nation,"' were the words engra- 
ven over the entrance to that ancient lookurg structure which be- 
spake the Bible and the days of the IsraeUtes. What shall 1 say 
of the display of porcelain, glassware, a suite of rooms elegantly 
furnished, laces, silks, velvets and furs, (Russia excelling in the 
three articles last named) — historical n^'presentations from the 
Scrii^tures both in sculpture and painting. A groupe consisting of 
a Laplander, vdie and baby, arrayed in i-obes of thick fur and just 
esconscing themselves in the farther corner of their sledge, to which 
was attached a fine reindeer; also another scene, "the death of the 
reindeer," were very impressive. There was a painting of Christ 
fresh from the manger, Avith the attendants gazing in wonder, it 
appeared to me, at his astounding size and agility. 1 should have 
judged it to be a picture of a child two years of age, squirming 
from the bath, but there was really beautiful statuary portraying 
Our Master from his infancy to his crucifixion. There were large 
pictures deft fingers had formed of highly colored worsteds, that 
rivaled oil paintings in their beauty and completeness. There 
were quilts whose silk foundations were one solid mass of rich em- 
broidery of garlands of flowers in manifold designs. This, our first 
day was spent in carefully and attentively canvassing a great por- 
tion of the main building. Though the pouring rain threatened a 
damper on our amusements and spoiled our good clothes at the 



VISIONS von TiiK cuiuors. ?>1 

outset, we were cheerlul ;uiiitl the difficulties, and at nooutnne 
sought the "Dauy" where we were refreshed with a warm sul;)stan- 
tial dinner. When we were under shelter of the mahi building, 
the rain fell with no unmusical sound. We ventured out long 
enough to take a three niiles ride around the grounds on the 
narrow guage, double track steam railway. The car si-ats were 
dripping with ^^■ater that had beaten in from the open sides of the 
coaches, and many of the passengers sat on the liack of long seats 
that ran across the width of the car. In fact the cars were very 
much like the open street cars in Chicago. We registered at the 
Illinois State building, which was a commodious cottage, comfort- 
ably furnished for the accommodation of the citizens of that State. 
It was the only place where I enjoyed the warmth of a fire while 1 
was in Philadelphia. Our postmaster, whose office was in that 
building, v>'as one of the most gentlemanly officials I ever mot with. 
The people generally volunteered information to each other, and 
the policemen were extremely courteous, fulfilling the scriptural 
adjuration to ''be patient and long suffering." Tney answered all 
questions with dignity and politeness, humored the querulous, 
guided the lost to ]ilaces of safety and guarded well the rich treas- 
ures entrusted to their care, rigidly insisting that the motly crowd 
refram from any manipulations of the dazzling stores so temptingly 
arrayed, as to in\dte touch as well as sight. Being neither a, man 
nor a minor I was not attracted by the mineral ore only in the ex- 
tent of display which was vast. It was a splendid sight after as- 
cending the spiral stairway, to look down upon the objects animate 
and inanimate; the former moving with slow tread that the eye 
might be enabled to encompass all the loveliness; the latter pre- 
senting a combination of bright and sombre hues enchantuig to the 
beholder. When weary we esconced ourselves in the easy chairs 
and divans placed there for our use, and watched these children of 
curiosity gratify their love for the beautiful as they marched along, 
pausing here and there for a closer examination of some one article 
more remarkable than another. When thirsty, our parched 
throats gratefully received the cooling draught from a magnificent 
soda tountain. Our first day at the Exposition is ended and too 
tired for expression we "hang on by the eyebrows," as some one 
expressed it, to a crowded street-car Avhile the rain deluges the 
occupants of the platform. Fastidiousness may as well be laid 
aside in such a place. No exceptions are made in favor of race, 



32 TWKl.VK STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

color or ])rovious foiidition, i)i a stret't-oar where humanity is so 
compact that none but a conductor capable of materializing and 
de-materiali/.ijig ad libitum, dare effect an entrance. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

^^UNDAY morninor, September twenty-fourth, I awoke and 
^^^ found the vain still i^onring- which bespoke for tourists a 
dismal day. We were told it had rained for two weeks. If you 
have ever been far from home in a strange city, waiting for the 
sun to sliine and waiting in vain, you will give me your sympathy 
during the trials of that Sabbath, in Philadelphia. I fear I must 
acknowledge home -sickness, teai-s and loss of appetite which sig- 
naled a famine when once I'ecovered. My companions were very 
kind to me but there came no rift in the clouds that had settled 
o'er my spirits. We took a dreary walk through monotonous 
streets v/here the houses wore all brick and approached by flights 
of white marble steps, and in dark nights when their numbers can- 
not be seen I am sure their occupants must be puzzled to find theu* 
individual homes if no friendly street-lamp tui'ns informant to the 
belated citizen. I am thankful when tlie weary day is done, a day 
so tedious to me yet to the citizens of New York City, remarkable 
for the blowing up of Hell Gate and I was told that many of the 
dwellers nearest the scene of the explosion, removed througli 
fear of its disastrous nwults. The explosion was under water and 
raised a sheet of that fluid three acres in extent to the height oi" 
fifty feet. Monday morning finds us on our waj' to the Exposition 
grounds. We visit the Art Gallery also known as Memorial Hall, 
a fii-e-proof building, costing $1,500,000, and designed to i-emain 
as a permanent memorial of the nations' first Centennial Anniver- 
sary. The pictures were beyond my descriptive powers and I can 
only say that I saw " Temptation, Adam and Eve in Paradise," 
"Samson and Delilah," '" Prometheous bound, devoured by vult- 
ures," " Eve with Cain and .\l)el." The statuary was lovely but 



THK A'Oirv: OK GAI>ILEO. "iT MOVES, IT MOVES." 38 

I must express my opinion upon both sculpture and painting as 
to the lack of drapery surrounding- the cha acters represented. 
Ignorant country people, (if you so wish to designate them) having 
few advantages, are all the more acute to discern an impropriety 
if there be one, and this class of people not yet having had their 
native modesty blunted by famOiar contact with the fashionable 
world who liscense naked picture painting, are shocked at behold- 
ing the human form on exliibition in so puljlic a place, devoid of 
even the primitive clothing invented by Adam and Eve. These 
pictures are adorned ( V) with all the reality of life, and come upon 
one's vision before he is aware of their proximity, and for a moment 
he is led to believe some poor lunatic has evaded the vigilance of 
her keepers and thrust herself before his eyes. If to be fashionable 
is to lay aside our decency, and, in a mixed crowd, such as thronged 
the Arti Gallery, gaze unblushingly upon such artistic eftbrts, I 
for one would wish to be left to the obscurity of the counti-y where 
in solitariness only the clear streams reflect the beauty of the inno- 
cent maiden. There was the statue of Bismai-k, costing four thou- 
sand dollars in gold, — the statue of the Daughter of Zion, lamenting 
over the ruins of Jerusalem, and the Youth of Michael Angelo. 
The entrance to this hall was grand with statuarj'. In the Annex 
was an oil painting of "Galileo before the tribunal of Spain." On 
leaving this building we call at the i^ostotlice from which I extract 
two long letters, and the further pleasures of the daj'^ are gilded 
with the love-light of home reflected by so precious a talisman. 
While I rest on the easy couch in the elegant parlor of the Illinois 
State Builihng, and listen to the music of the piano, I muse that 
though I am suiTounded by the grandest sight I ever expect to see. 
a j»/f<'s«f"/e/- one is in prospective — a sight of husband and home. 
We next enter Machinery Hall, covering about fourteen acres and 
costing eight hundred thousand dollars. There were displayed the 
various sewing machines and their elegant stitching; a specimen of 
Cole's chamiingly executed my name on a ground work of black 
cloth. Dummy's were arrayed in costumes comparing the ditfer- 
ence in the styles of 1776 and 1S76 — the ckess of the former century 
being a green satin under-skirt and light satin over-dress richly 
emliroidered, and the latter time was represented by a figure in 
light pink satin. The basques to both costumes were similar, and 
pointed in front. There were dolls clothed in "i)uii)le and fine 
linen" of all sizes, and apparently of all ages. I noticed a mon- 



34 TWKLVK STATKS AXD A KIXODOM. 

strous propeller wheel and luiicliines for ])riiiti]if;' — trains of cars 
resting on rails of sinning steel, and here in the center of the build- 
ing was found the mannnoth Corliss engine, the largest in the 
world, of fourteen hundi't^l horse power, capable of driving the 
entire shafting necessary to nni all the machinery exhibits. In the 
Annex was a tank one hundred and sixty feet long by sixty wide, 
with a depth of ten feet. At the south end of this tank was a 
water-fall thirty-five feet high by forty wide, supplied from the 
tank by the pumps on exhibition. A small l)oat was moored on 
the sui-face of the water. We saw the first ])i4nting press placed 
in comparison with those in present use. Silk ties and suspenders 
were being wov«ni ; pins manufactured and stuck at the rate of one 
hundred and eighty thousand per day. Saw envelopes, brick and 
shmgles in jirocess of formation, and a knitting machine operated 
by turning a crank. It was knitting a stocking of red and black 
yarn. We next visited the United States building, erected by the 
United States Government at a cost of $60,000. It covers about 
two acres. There we got on the war track and scouted inanimate 
Sioux Chiefs — Red Cloud in indescribable paint and feathers — 
Esquimaux — Indian idols — a Makah Indian, a female Indian skel- 
eton or mummy — a wigwam — a miniature Patent Office — torpedo 
boat guided Ijy electricity, and boats of all descriptions — seamen of 
the United States Navy — oiu- own soldiers in blue, so lifelike yet 
lifeless — furs worn by Dr. Kane in the Arctic region, also a bust of 
the daring explorei- — also soldiers wath the uniform of the Continen- 
tal infantry 1776 — soldiers representing Morgan's rifles — a gi-een 
light-house — a whaling vessel — a lobster shell in full dress — wdld 
animals apparently ready to devour the intruder, but harmless as 
kittens, in their inanimateness — sculls and endless curiosities of 
Indian manufacture — a sjian of farm horses haniessed and ready for 
the field, with mild eyes and marks of hard lal>or upon their 
breasts — also saw the head of a whale from the Atlantic Ocean — a 
musk ox — an Indian dug-out or canoe — a squaw's water-proof, 
made of the intestines of the sea Hon — also the lai'gest pipe in the 
world, costing two hundred and fifty dollars, and can not be dupli- 
cated. I think it was made of ivoiy. It was coveted by eveiy 
masculine lover of the weed, no doubt. Next we marched into the 
Kansas and Colorado bu Iding, which was ingeniously decorated 
with grains. Tliere was a bell constructed of cereals and designed 
to imitate the old bt-U at Independence Hall. Grain strung upon 



BAKED HKA>fS AND JOnNNY-CAKE. 35 

wire, hung in graceful festoons like some rare fi-inge. There was 
a very high p^yramid of luscious apples— a white butfalo, stuffed— 
a case of birds Idlled and preserved by one woman's hand. Wild 
animals without lite, stood upon a craggy mountainside and might 
well engage the attention of the hunter. A real, live rattle snake 
lent a charm to the scene. (The secret of the charm was, in its 
being securely enclosed in a box.) The Woman's Pavilion was 
next explored. It covers nearly an acre of ground, and cost thirty 
thousand dollars, paid by the voluntary contributions of the women 
of the United States. It is said to contain "everything women 
make that is worth showing." It did not quite meet my expecta- 
tions, though the display was all fine, but it possessed no entirely 
new, striking feature, if we except perhaps, a patent dish-washer, 
which after carefully viewing, decided me to adhere to the old way. 
There was carpet weaving — a box containing turtles and bugs 
made of leather by Miss A. Williamson. The New England 
kitchen was desigiied to illustrate the New England kitchen 
of the present time as compared with that of one hundred 
years ago. It was made of logs and filled with old fashioned arti- 
cles, and the lady attendants were in ancient dress. There were 
huge books scarcely legible with their queer "f's" in lieu of "s." 
Old spinning wheels that were the pride of the hearts of our 
grandmothers, also a folding chair, two hundred years old. The 
odor of baked beans and "Johnny cake" always drew a crowd in 
and around that building. Hop vines shaded the small windows 
and a few homely vegetables grew within a small enclosure, an 
apology for a garden. It required the constant care of a police- 
man to maintain quiet at the gateway of tliis humble cottage. Mr. 

and Mrs. B left the grounds at five o'clock to call on friends, 

and I felt qmte homelike to be thus thrown on my own resources. 
I took the cars for a ride ai-ound the grounds. At that late hour 
but few were in them, and the view was splendid. The track be- 
ing circular, one can see his own engine curving first to the right, 
then to the left. They seemed.to manag-e to have the trains meet, 
when the train that I was on was going up grade, as it were, and 
the approachijig engine had the appearance of colliding with that 
of our own, but we felt no shock and received no hurt. The sun 
was at that di-eamy height that it seemed half wishful yet half 
sad to bid us good night. The neatly kept grounds wore their 
loveHest aspect, and the short green grass and blooming flowers 



36 TWKI.VK STATES AM) A KIXf;DO.\r. 

and sparkliii--: touiitaiiis and i^mootli lakes all seemed to be wooing 
a fina,l jjlanei^ from this day kinof, and shed their attractions as an 
enticement lor his return, and strove to make this parting- most 
regretful . When my ride was ended I sought the assistance of a 
policeman to see me safely on board the Girard Avenue car. 
Everything on wheels was packed full. I had to stand all the 
way home, but we were a jolly set. Indeed there was the utmost 
cordiality expressed between entii-e strang-ers during my whole 
journey, and all seemed honest people like myself. We were 
startled at seeing a span of horses attached to a barouche, run- 
ning away, in Fairmount Park. 1 did not hear of the result, 
whether the coachman succeeded in getting the fiery steeds under 
his control, or whether more lives were sacrificed on the altar of 
pleasure. I reached the Park View Hotel which is not far from 
Cxirard College, at dark and passed the evening alone in my room, 
writing to the lonely ones at home, after listening to some verj- 
fair music executed by some parties from Beloit, Wisconsni. Young 
America was well rei^resented in the person of a lad of some eight- 
een summers, I should judge. Praises were lavished upon him 
on every hand, and being the pet of his numerous fi-iends, he was 
consequently in great danger of being spoiled. His voice, a perfect 
contralto, 1 could have better appreciated had it belonged to a miss 
of tender years, but believing in the "eternal fitness of things" 1 
could not but think he was out of his sphere to thus usurp the pro- 
vince of the many young misses at his side, who seemed anxious to 
render their share of the vocal entertainment. They were well- 
bred little folks, and were having " such a lovely time " as they 
expressed it. Happy youth ! devoid of care, with no thonght of 
.stocks and bonds and mortgages ^vith interest due; but no doubt 
your fond parents take as much pleasure in anticipating your en- 
joyments as do you in participating in the pleasures their labor and 
forethought have provided the means to enjoy. 



COSTLY COMFORT. 87 



CHAPTER IX. 

kN onr amval at the grounds Tuesda^- mornino', September, 
Jy '26th, we again visit tlie Main Building, and examine a bath- 
tub, worth two hundred dollars, lined with slate. A looking-glass 
costing one thousand dollars, with a frame of cut g'lass, thoug'h a 
beauty in itself, reflected the images of the passersby as nature 
made them, -wdthout lending- any of its own charms to form or 
featui-e. In the Hawaiian department was lava, which when burn- 
ing, must certainly be beheld with consternation. There was a 
cloak made of the bark of the bread-fruit tree, trimmed with bells; 
a hat made of the arrow-root plant. In Japan was a bedstead 
worth twenty-five thousand dollars, made of small pieces of various 
kinds of wood, taking twenty persons five years to construct it. In 
Austria were slippers made of glass. There were two pieces of 
statuary being- a representation of "liide and seek." It rained for 
two hours this day, and we reviewed the Main Building pretty 

thoroughly. We were over-taken by a dear friend, Mrs. D , 

and another lady and her husband, from W- , our starting 

point. We visit the House of Public Comfort. Things were ex- 
tremely comfortable there for cash, but without a. stuffed pocket- 
book one might as well seek comfort in cheaper quarters. I judged 
the countiy was pros]ierous, as that buUding always held a crowd 
who certainly paid for what they received, as I realized from exper- 
ience after purchasing one lunch there. The quality of the food 
was par excellent, but the quantity sent me away hungiy after 
expending enough money for a substantial dinner at any first-class 
hotel. We took a survey of the foreign buildings and bazaar's, in 
the afternoon. I am inclined to be skeptical as to the genuineness 
of the Jerusalem trinkets, exposed to view by foreign looking per- 
sonages dressed in Oriental costumes, who might have been ordi- 
nary Jews, residents of our own countiy, for ought I know. The 



88 TWELVE STATES AM) A KIN(;D().U. 

Holy Land is a <iTc'at clistaiifc froDi ns. and not so easy of access as 
to juistify the rcniioval of such vast quantities of sacred wood, and 
relics, as were exhibited. This is an age of shams, but really if all 
those articles were genuine;, Jerusalem must be pretty thorou<ilily 
stripped of its ornateness and remembrancers. We saw a Swedish 
school house, erected by v.'orkmen from Sweden, and all the mater- 
ials were imported from that countiy. In the Annex to the Main 
Building, was Wa-sliington's traveling- carriage in 1776, with four 
white horses attached, which were made of wood and painted 
wliite, We saw numbers of elegant vehicles of all shapes and 
designs, from the solemn hearse down to the jockey's sulkj- for 
horse racing purposes. In my rounds I saw a mummj-, an Egy])t- 
ian priestess or princess. Cremation is more conducive to post 
moiiem beauty, than to be converted into a mummy, therefore I 
decide in favor of the uini and its ashes. 



CHAPTER X. 

jf<?(N\N the morning of the twenty-seventh, Mr. and Mrs. B 

x_U' left for New York. I arose at five o'clock A. M. for an early 
search after some remiss relation that left home the same day that 
I departed, and whom I had not seen since we left Washington. 
After ri<ling three or four miles in the street cars I failed to dis- 
cover their boarding plac(,>, and I alighted at the door of Mrs. 

D 's stojjping place, in time for breakfast. As I sat beside her 

husband at the table, he made the homely though trite remark that 
"chickens come home to roost." Truly I was as glad of their 
company a thousand miles from home and partook of their hospit- 
ality as freely as it I had been seated at their own board under their 
home roof, where I am ever welcome. There was a long table 

filled with W friends, among them our pastor, and we had a 

meri-y meal. We all repaired to the Centennial grounds for a day's 
further enjoyment. Just outside the grounds there was on exhi- 



SIEGE OF PARIS. 89 

bition, the wonderful "Sieg-e of Paris;" which we proceeded to 
explore and were well satisfied with our investment of fifty centSr 
after becoming- familiar with its nn'steries naiTated to us Ijy a gen- 
tleman constantly in waiting, and who repeated the story every 
half hour. The picture of the siege was four hundred and eighty 
feet long and fifty-five feet high, and it was sixty-six feet from one 
stand point to the scene represented. It took thirty artists fifteen 
months to pamt it. After depositing another half dollar at the 
self-registering tum-stile we were once more surrounded by the 
magic of the past, "We enter Agricultural Hall, whose green roof 
covers ten and a quarter acres, at a cost of three hundred thousand 
dollars. There are fruits from all parts of the world, quantities of 
which were canned whole, and could not fail to tempt the poorest 
appetite. There was a pavilion made of cotton, and its pure white 
pillars resembled a mass of snow flakes, which the first glance of 
the sun might lay low. There was a span of splendi'l bay horses 
with shining harness, attached to a reaper with nothing factitious, 
unnatural to betray the handiwork of man. Horticultural Hall, 
constructed of stone, brick, glass and iron, has one and a half acres 
under cover, at a cost of three hundred thousand dollars. There 
we Sciw sugar cane Irom Havana-, the Musk Dago or Sago, the 
largest plant in the hall — the date pahn from Asia — the Talipot 
palm from Ceylon — an oriramental stand made of boquet-holders of 
satin in all colors — a stand of dried natural flowers — Terra-cotta 
works; in fact this building had an air of neatness, coolness and 
quiet that, to the visitors through the intensely hot season, must 
have been a very elysium. Here one might visit the tropics with 
impunity from wild beasts or embrace of the boa-constrictor; might 
sit under the shade of the palm without fear of its being up- 
rooted by the trunk of the elephant; but though the poisonous in- 
sect and its venomous sting were absent, one might not handle the 
delicate, tropical plants, nor so much as pluck one tiny leaf from 
their fragile stems. I separate from my companions at night and 
return to my hotel. I am assigned a smaller room, about the size 
of a clothes-ijress, but it appears clean and is cheerful with gas- 
light. Mrs. B has learned me to call for fresh bed-linen, and 

on an examination of the sheets, I find that this is a case that will 
warrant me in can-ying out her instructions, and I ring for the 
chambermaid. A prompt compliance wath ray order puts me in 
possession of a pair of sheets, that in dampness could not be ex- 



40 T\VF.I-VF, STATKS AND A KINr.DOM. 

celled. 1 eall for hot water and warm up internally before tiyin<>' 
their freshness. T have no encomiums for Fairmouiit water works 
on the Schuylldll river, from which Philadelphia receives its supply 
of water. To me the water is useless for diinking puri)oses, even 
after it is boiled. Some of the ladies told me they had never drank 
as much beer as they had quaffed since their amval in the city, 
being driven to the intempei-ance by the bad water. The example 
is a bad one truly, but I am compelled by necessity to follow it, 
but trust my masculine acquaintances will not take my actions as a 
precedent from which to be guided. 



CHAPTER XI. 

I^HURSDAY, Septemljer 28th, is Pennsylvania's day at the 
>-iX Centennial, and having slept like a. lark the previous night, 
the humid sheets notwithstanding, I am prepared for early rising 
and a further investigation of the whereabouts of my kinsmen, 
which search proves fruitless as before, and the street cars get so 
filled I am debarred from joining Mrs. D. and her party, as on the 
morning pre\'ious, and after a four miles circuit I reach the Cen- 
tennial grounds, where already a vast crowd is congregated. I 
first seek the Woman's Pavilion, where, guarded bj' two police- 
men, is exhibited the "Butter Bust, by Mrs. Caroline S. Brooks, 
repi'esenting the dreaming lolanthe, King Kene's daughter. This 
ingenious design set as a X)rotoplast for her artistic sisters, was bar- 
ren of bovine suggestions, and none but a modem scientist could 
have detected lactescence as the primordial in its creation. The 
day being made a national holiday, the grounds were early filled 
with processions of various orders, that of the Soldier's Orphan's, 
drawng tears to my eyes as I thought of the battle fields strewn 
with lifeless fathers who once held to their warm, lo^dng hearts, 
these children that marched before me. The caliope whistled 
"Hold th(.' fort." while th(; bells chimed the Marseilles hvmn, and 



IIETROSPEC'TION. 41 

amid tliriUing- music the Governor of Pennsylvania was escorted to 
the State buildino:, where he held his reception. The State build- 
ings are in a row, some of them, especially Jlichigan, ornate with 
lattice work, and all present what is most prized by the tourist, a 
hospitable apjiear'ance. There is such a concourse of people (excell- 
ing in number any previous day) that it is utterly impossible to see 
an.v-thuig inside the building, and the utmost efforts of the fuming 
police are powerless to protect the greensward from the tread of the 
invaders, intent on being the first to welcome the noted personages 
as under escort of the militia, headed by brass bands, they appear 
on the grounds. 1 pass the forenoon in wandering around, seeking 
some familiar face, but nm rewarded only with the sight of the 

countenance of one of my neighbors in W . Tired of all the 

pomp and display, 1 seat myself on the platform near one of the en- 
trances to the Main building and take a last, retrospective gaze o'er 
the panorama that a week's stay has made familiar and dear to 
me. Unless my longevity equal that of our primeval ancestors, 
this must necessarily be my last centennial, and it was mete that 1 
devote the closing monuents in celebrating this my first and final 
centenary anniversary of our prosperous nation, to solemn thoughts 
bom of recent communion with the strange, idealistic things of the 
past, and the realism of the present closely cemented by the tardy 
but certain elements of progression. British India, in Asia, over- 
coming the distance of eleven thousand five hundred and thirty-five 
mUes, has offered her tribute to our glory and that of her own, in 
bringing rare products of the Torrid zone, to swell the mass of curi- 
osities here congregated. Australia, the land of the convict, sends 
her wonders a distance of ten thousand two hundred and sixty 
miles, and places them at our command. Russia, exceeding all 
other countries in her extent of 7,2'27,870 square miles, excels in her 
display of costly silks and velvets and rich furs. China, with her 
exceeding population of 477,500,000 souls, has not been sparing of 
her grotesque manufactures which are so lavishly spread before our 
vision, we may almost estimate one article to each of her inhabi- 
tants. The Hawaiian Islands, with a minimum population of 
62,959, are by no means in the back-ground with their exhibits of 
gorgeous plumage and articles of incomi^arable texture. Our own 
beloved United States, though but8,6o4,797 square miles in extent, 
with a population of 45,816,000, requires the greatest number of 
square feet (189,2ol,) for the display of her wealth and grandeur, 
6 



42 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

which have ])ecn accumulating for a hundred years, and of which 
there can be no diminution in the centuiy that is but opening up 
her infancy amid prosperity and peace ■with all nations. This Cen- 
tennii^l Exhibition opened with imposing ceremonies, May 10th 
1876, with an attendance of one hundred thousand people, the 
President of the United States, his cabinet and other high officials, 
together with Dom Pedro, Emperor of Brazil, and his Empress, be- 
ing among the number. It closed, October 10th of the same year, 
and the total cost is estimated at $S,.")()0,000. Upon the toil and 
trials incident to the perfecting of so grand a scheme, who shall 
pliice an estimate? We were informed that the Main building had 
sold for one million eight hundred thousand dollars. The amassing 
of these treasures from the remotest ends of the inhabitable earth; 
the preparing of a place suitable for their reception ; the adorning 
of the grounds with costly fountains and statuary; the gracUng of 
seven miles of roads and foot-paths, and broidering them with red- 
olant flowers; the constructing of bridges and summer-houses — all 
this required abundant means, unsurpassed perseverance, Christian 
patience and a master mind at the helm with efficient, obedient 
subordinates ever ready to do his bidding. If there be one person 
more than another who originated this nation's festivity of a half 
year's diu-ation, that has pi-oven so successful, let his name be set in 
our memories and cherished through the vista of coming ages. The 
youngest in this generation cannot hope to be his successor. The 
new born infant of to-day, perchance, a hundred years hence in the 
decrepitude of old age, may hobble to a renewal of like splendors on 
these ver}' grounds; but the intellect to-day not yet developed to an 
appreciation of this scene will then be too enfeebled to rightly esti- 
mate the value of the treasures of the next centuiy 's gathering, and 
thus not possessing the vigor of ripe manhood will lose alike the 
charm coimected with the celebration of both eras. Farewell to 
this people whose bodies terrestrial the coming years will convert 
into dust, but whose souls will live on amid beauties celestial. 
Farewell to the antiquities left for the admii-ation of a future gen- 
eration. Farewell to all this peiishable matter that must needs 
change its form, not one particle of which can ever be irretrievably 
lost. All this beauty will decay. The life of the fountains will be 
sapped by the recondite workings of nature. The marble statue is 
no less cold than will be the hand of the sculptor years hence. The 
genius of the artist will have perished long ere the colors of his 



pictures become dininied by that great etfacer — time; but tli£ artist's 
power though lost to earth, may be quickenetl by heavenlj^ realities 
that here were but imaginings. All the industrious hands that 
have helped to rear these delicate structures of glass or raise the 
solid walls of granite and iron, will one day lie idle awaiting their 
future work appointed by their heavenly master. Blessed heaven 
with its i)repared mansions where e<ich and every well-doer may 
find a home. One last, lingering gaze and the Centennial gates 
have closed u]3on me forever ! 



CHAPTER Xir. 

^jjHILADELPHIA, the largest city, as to area, in the United 
^^ States, and the second in population, lies between the Dela- 
ware and Schuylldll rivers, six miles above their junction and nine- 
ty-six miles from the Atlantic Ocean. It is twenty-two miles long 
from north to south, with a breadth of five to eight miles. There 
are over three hundred and fifty miles of paved streets, and more 
buildings than any other city in the country. The city was founded 
by William Penn, who came over from England in 1682, with a 
colony of Quakers, and purchased the site from the Indians. The 
first Congress assembled here, and the Declaration of Independence 
was signed and issued here .July 4th, 1776. The convention which 
formed the Constitution of the Republic, assembled here in May 
1787. Here resided the first President of the United States, and 
here Congress continued to meet until 1787. The city was in pos- 
session of the British from September 1777 to June 1778, a result of 
the unfortunate battles of Brandywine and Germantown. Its pop- 
ulation in 1874, was 674,022. It is pecuHarly rich in relics of its 
early history. The oldest of these is the Old Swede's Church, which 
was built in 1700. It is of brick, and still regularly used. In the 
cemetery surrounding the church are grave stones dating from 
1700. Penn's cottage, a little two-stoiy biick house stands on 



44 T\VI<;i,VK STATES AND A KtNfiDONf. 

Lelitia street, a few doors south of Market ; it was built for Peim 
before his arrival in the settlement, and has withstood the march of 
improvemt^nt that has swept away so many more pretentious struc- 
tures. Treaty monument, comer of Bea«h and Hanover streets, 
marks the site of the old elm tree under which Penn made his 
treaty with the Indians. The tree was blown down in 1810. Christ 
Church (Episcopal) contains the oldest chime of bells in America. 
Its steeple is one hundred and ninety-six feet high. Carpenter's 
Hall is a plain two-story brick building, where assembled the first 
Congress of the United Colonies. Hultzheimer's New House, 
where Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, is at the 
south-west cc^rner of Market and 7th streets, and Franklin's grave 
is at the south-west comer of Arch and 5th streets. Number 2:^)9 
Arch street, is noticeable as the place where the first American flag 
was made. Gii-ard College was founded by Stephen Girard, a 
native of France, who died 1881. He bequeathed $2,000,000 for 
the purpose of erecting suital)le buildings "for the gratuitous in- 
struction and support of destitute orphans." and the institution is 
supported by the income of the residue of his estate, after the pay- 
ment of certain legacies. On December :Ust, 1874, the estate 
amounted to -ffi, 104,862.22. The gi-ounds embrace forty-two acres. 
In a room in the central or college building, known as "Girard's 
room , ' ' are preserved the books and personal effects of the founder. 
A statue of Girard stands at the foot of the stairway, underneath 
which he is buried." PeiTnits to visit the college may be obtained 
by all classes of individuals, except clergymen, and why is that? 
Fairmount I'ark has an extent of nearly fom-teen miles in length, 
being one of the largest in the world. Among other points of in- 
terest, th<!j' contain the Zoological gardens, with a fine assoriment 
of American and European animals. 

"Philadelphia, boasts of more beautiful cemeteries than any 
other city in the country. Tlie principal one is Laural Hill, estab- 
lished in 18;i."), embracing two hundred acres, and its distinguishing 
feature is its unique garden, landscape, and the profusion of trees, 
shruljs and flowers which adorn it. Among the former, are some 
cedars of Lebanon, the first which bore fruit in the United States. 
Woodland cemeterj' contains the Drexel mausoleum, the finest in 
America. Th(> United States Navy Yard, is located on the Dela- 
ware river, at the foot of Federal street, and encloses twelve acres. 
Xt one of the docks is the frigate Constitution, "Old Ironsides," 



ETIIKOPIAN SPLENDOR. 45 

tlie most renowned vessel of the American Nav;>'. This yard will 
be sold as soon as League Island is ready for occupancy. It is a 
low tract of land of six hundred acres, at the confluence of the Del- 
aware and iSchuylldll rivers, and was presented by the city to the 
United States Government, on condition of its being converted into 
a great Naval depot." On leaving the C'entennial grounds I took 
the street cars for a ride about town. Visited Independence Hall, 
which was so thronged with sight seers, but little could be seen, 
and certainly nothing examined. I saw the old bell which was 
first nmg after the passage of the Declaration, but which ■will never 
more ring out its clear tones for liberty. I stood in the east room 
where met the Continental Congress, and on the fourth of July, 
1776, adopted the Declaration of Independence which was publicly 
proclaimed from the stejjs on the same day, I am told the room 
presents the same appearance now as it did then. In Congress Hall 
in the second story, Washington delivered his farewell address. 
Independence Square, in the rear of Independence Hall, is inclosed 
by a solid brick wall, and contains some majestic trees. It was 
^vithin this inclosure that the Declaration of Independence was first 
pubhcly read, July 4th, 177fi. Washington Square, diagonally 
opposite, is celebrated for containing nearly eveiy tree that will 
grow in this climate, whether indigenous or not. As I rode along 
the streets of this great city I saw many lovely homes, and no 
doubt my interest would have been enhanced had I known the no- 
toriety connected with them. While I was in a car drawn by one 
horse, it was hailed by a black gentleman, i ! a suit of black broad- 
cloth and a ruffled shirt front, with dazzling diamond embellish- 
ments. He held in his arms a chubby baby, which presented an 
aspect of snowy whiteness, with the exception of its round face and 
thmpled fists. Its robes were rich witii embroidery, and a filmy 
lace cap hid but partially its curluig wool . A few tightly twisted 
locks escaped and covered its low, shming forehead. The wife and 
mother was arrayed in rustling silk, with wide white ribbons dang- 
ling a,-la-mode from a gaudily arranged hat which set out her black 
profile in alto-relievo. She held by the hand a bright little miss 
of some four summers, with an o] aque visage, the counterpart of 
her mother's, and bits of muslin, laces and softest elve clothed her 
cap-a-pie. Their delicate lace nose-blowers were heavily perfumed 
with musk, and my partiality for that dehghtful peifume was then 
and there completely destroyed. Evidently this was an aristocratic 



46 TWELVE STATKS AXD A KINODO.M. 

off-shoot from one of the escaped F. F. Vs. Thouj^-h "fine feath- 
ers make fine 1 tints,"' yon can not make a beautiful white crow out 
of a black one. 1 am decided in my inherent skepticism on two 
points; first, as to any natural loveliness in the negro race, and 
secondly, as to there being l)eautiful Indian maidens born to the 
noble red men of the forest. Though 1 would not hann a hair of 
their heads, that the Great Spirit hath numbered, I must ever be a 
living prototype of Hai'riet Beecher Stowe's "Miss Oiihelia," and 
gatlier my robes aljout me when approached by one of the enfran- 
chised race. Near the Zoological Uardens 1 left the car, and walk- 
ed along a nan-ow, quiet footpath, that I would not have believed 
existed in a city of Philadelphia's magnitude. I reached Girard 
Avenue bridge across the Schuylkill river, and what a scene met 
ray gaze compared to the isolated nook I had but just explored. 
With the steam cars winding around the hill in the distance, with 
boats sailing on the navigable waters beneatli my feet, with the 
street cars and vehicles crossing the bridge upon which I stood, and 
the park dotted with thousands ot pedestrians, and barouches drawn 
by prancing steeds — surely every means for locomotion was spread 
before me, and I chose to exercise the perambulatory muscles of the 
human frame, that, guided by the will, I might pause a sufiicient 
length of time to take in all the grandeur about me — yet, some- 
times pressed by the crowd, I was borne along over the dangerous 
street crossings, or, perhaps absorbed in my wonderous gazing, 1 
for a moment was forgetfid of the hurrying throng and stood alone, 
supported by some friendly railing or convenient ]amp-]J0st. But 
1 was among strangers, with the utmost freedom of feeling and 
action, and if any secretly adjudged me insane they would never 
take the trouble to incarcerate me in one of the many asylums, with 
which Philadelphia abounds. And thus I strode on till my room 
was gained, where I threw myself upon my couch to collect the 
confused inass of ideas which my afternoon's peregrination had 
awakened. Magnificent fire-works, surpassing all former empyreal 
displays, were announced for the evening's amusement, on the sum- 
mit of George's Hill in Fairmount Pai'k. Being disappointed in a 
masculine escort, I saw only a few rockets from the parlor window 
of the Park View House. But 1 am gUul to escape the jam conse- 
quent on an attendance, and with a long, epistolary assurance from 
liome that 1 am resmembered and thnt though "distance may pait 
UK nothing can sever, hearts that like ours are united forever," 1 



POLICEMKN VS. PICK-POCKETS. 47 

seek early the land of dreams, and by so doing am rewurded with a 
sound mind and rested body, on the morning of the 29th of Sep- 
tember, which ushers in the day that is noted for my departure 
from the home of the Quakers. 



CHAPTER Xlir. 

^ had an unintentional view of the city that morning, that I 
^^ was not in a frame of mind to appreciate. The baggage-man 
at the hotel having checked my trunk to one depot and directed 
me to another, necessitated my waiting at what is called the Cen- 
tennial Depot, for a j^eriod of about three hours, expecting mo- 
mentarily the arrival of my baggage. After the departure of three 
trains for New York City 1 could endure the delay no longer and 
mounted on the seat of an Express wagon, (whose altitude was 
not to my liking and the vehicle too unpretentious by far), I was 
conveyed back to the hotel where I interviewed the proprietor in as 
strong terms as became a lady tourist. I made known my wants 
which were in etfect that a horse and carriage be placed at my 
command instanter and an immediate search for that trunk insti- 
tuted — , that it could not of its own volition take itself out of the 
city and if it were yet within the radius of the one hundi'ed and 
twenty-four square miles of Philadelphia I proposed to recover it. 
A poor horse that hadn't been permitted to seek his quarters till 
three o'clock in the morning, (being on duty all the previous night, 
conveying its share of the dense throng that witnessed the fire 
works, back to the city), dragged a sickly looking light wagon 
before the door, with an oil-cloth top insufficient to protect ought 
but the seat, the capacious rear being intended for the storing of 
baggage. Into this carry-all I disposed myself, seated beside a. 
sleepy looking youth who had shared the last night's vigils of this 
" heavey " old horse, and to whom nature in the beginning of the 
boy's creation, had allotted two eyes, but one having become im- 
paired by stress of vision or other accident, he had altogether the 



48 TWELVK STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

appearance of a one-sided, down-trodden, oppressed individual, and 
jndgin<j from his physiofj-noniy 1 was by no means satisfied that 
his principles and habits wore of the first order. He was not 
much (iciven to loqnac ty and divided his time between urging- the 
horse with the reins and gazing into notliingness with his blind 
eye. The result of this anxious ride was favoi-able and I em})raced 
the receptacle of my treasures, found safely housed in the Penn- 
sylvania Depot, among piles on piles of other baggage. 1 dis- 
missed my servant of the hour with good wishes accompanied by 
a piece of silver. The Pennsylvania Depot is a large, fine build- 
ing and held a crowd waiting for transportation by rail to New 
York City. It must have been between two and three o'clock, P. 
M. when the announcement came that our train was ready for 
occupancy. The few momenis i)assed in waiting for this mass of 
humanity to file through the straight and naiTow gate, were filled 
with well grounded fears of pick-pockets and I held tightly to my 
valuables and had it not been for the encircling arm of a veteran 
policeman who gently pushed me through rhe passage while 
1 held my ticket up for inspection, I think 1 should have been left 
standing there to this day, a monument of stupefaction. Grace- 
fulness was unthought of and all ran as fast as their limbs and 
loads would allow. The cars fiUed rapidly and I was only just 
in time to secure the last seat near the stove, which I shared with 
a polished French gentleman, a resident of New York City, but 
his accent was so broken, much of the information he kindly vol- 
unteered me along the route, was entirely lost. The train, of some 
twenty cars, was run in sections and I was tormented with fears 
whether it would be our destiny to dash into the train ahead of us 
or be smashed by the oncoming one. Tlie fates had no such 
calamity in store for us. The Pennsylvania Railroad encircles the 
Centennial grounds and we had a view of the to[)S of the buildings 
as we started on our journey. The train halted at the Centennial 
Depot where my morning had been passed in fruitless watching, 
which hiid it been avoided would have enabled me to have reached 
New York by ten o'clock A. M. As it was it would be near night- 
fall before I could possibly reach the friends awaiting my coming. 
It is a delightful ride from PhiUulelphia to New York City, a 
distance of ninety miles which it takes three hours to overcome. 
The land in New Jersey is low and sw^arms with gallinippers. 
Thirty-two miles from Philadelphia we reach Trenton where w<; 



FIUST EXPERIENCE WITH A FEKRY. 4i> 

cross the Delaware river. Here Washington won his famous 
victory over the Hessians, December 26th 1776. Newark, New 
Jersey, nine miles from New York City, contains one hundred thou- 
sand inhabitants. The Highlands of New Jersey are pointed out 
to me. On reaching? Jersey City, I concluded it must be consid- 
erable of a place, as the cars were being emptied of their live freight 
veiy rapidly, and among them my French companion. As he arose 
to leave, it struck my mind that perhaps 1 ought to follow the 
crowd, and I asked him if that was the place for me to alight. He 
said it was, and the manner in which I hustled my traps together 
would be an advanced lesson for snails to take in the rudiments of 
speediness. I was in the predicament of "my son John" in the 
nursery rhyme, who had "one boot off and one boot on," neverthe- 
less I landed on the platform, in loto, and though not a specimen of 
tidiness, I was at least presentable, and kept my eye on the white 
hat of the Frenchman, lest I be led to the wrong feny. My ideas 
of a ferry were rather confused, and extremely crude. I had never 
seen but one ferry boat, and that resembled a raft, and skum over 
the river amid the creaking and grmding of a rusty old chain on 
pulley's. 1 knew where there was a ferrj' there was water, but not 
a drop was in sight. I noticed the passengers one by one dart 
through a narrow opening where a fat man stood at a little window 
and as they passed they gave him money, which he accepted with- 
out thanks. He only asked me for two cents, which I gave him 
for charity's sake, and wondered what misfortune he had met with 
to be dependent on the public generosity. His corpulency suggest- 
ed a bloated bond holder come to grief, and I half wislied I had my 
pennies back. While these thoughts were flying through my mind 
I had been following the throng, that rushed pell-mell for what 
seemed to me like a covered bridge open only at one end. Horses 
and wagons stood in the center of the supposed bridge, and people 
walked along at the sides and were lost to my view. Presently 
bridge, people, horses and all moved off, and I saw water beaten 
to a foam by some marine monster, but its calmness was soon re- 
gained, and I was initiated into the mysteries of a first-class ferry, 
and while I stood watching the performance I was made to under- 
stand that I had missed the boat, and would be obliged to wait five 
minutes for another. I stepped into the waiting room, and when 
the next boat touched the wharf I boarded it with as much pom- 
posity as I could summons on a short, notice, and walking to tlie 
7 



50 TWELVE STATES AND A KINdDOM. 

front I took a seat with the coolness of an Atlantic whaler setting 
out on his first sea voyage. Our boat getting in the track of a 
large steamer, gave a few undulatory motions that threatened an 
upheaval of my scanty breakfast oi' coll'ee and doughnuts at the 
Centannial depot, V)ut a few vigorous swallows turned the tide, and 
I recovered my equanimity. Safely across the Hudson river, I took 
a horse-car through New York till I reached East river, where I 
encountered another ferry boat which landed me at Brooklyn. A 
short ride on the street cars, and I am tremblingly standing at the 
door of No. 47, Rush Street, Brooklyn, E. D. as per directions. My 
ring at the door-bell is answered, and a voice disturbing an echo of 
my childhood says, "come fight in, I know you." What a wel- 
come these words contained, and 1 did not hesitate to partake of 
the hospitality they offered. It had been twenty years since I had 
seen the faces of the dwellers m this elegant abode. Lo\'ing me 
when but a child, they now greeted the ifownj, as though there had 
been no intervention of long, eventful years. I was nearly over- 
come with the days anxiety and exciting travels and a motherly 
hand removed the bonnet of which I was forgetful, and that I had 
worn since the early moniing. 1 broke the day's fast by partaking 
of a hearty supper, and retired early, the sound of the merriment 
coming up from V)elow disturljing me not, but rather wooed me to 
the sweet slumber which I indulged in till a late hour the following 
moniing. 



THAT PLYMOTirn PASTOTt. 51 



CHAPTER XIV. 

^'ATURDAY, my first day in Brooklyn, was dark and rainy 
,^^ without, but within doors, a cheerful fire in the ^rate and 
lively conversation with my hostess and family, dispelled all drear- 
iness. I was suffering nmch with a cold in my head, Ijut despite 
clouds and sneezing 1 was very hap^iy in this retired, city home. 
Sunday, October 1st, was a bright, glorious Sabbath, and I open 
my tiTink for the first time since it was packed at home, and don- 
ning my best garments, we journeyed a distance of three miles on 
the street cars, to the renowned Plymouth Church, presided over 
by Rev. Henry Ward Beecher. Our party were fortunate in being 
offered a seat by a kind, elderly gentleman, the acceptance of which 
commanded for us a full view of the minister, choir and a closely 
packed congregation. Hundreds went away mthout even as much 
as a peep into the vestibule, for the church literally overflowed with 
curious humanity anxious to hear this, the noted divine's first ser- 
mon since the close of his summer vacation. I doubt not that there 
were daring ones among the waiting crowd that would have clung 
to the church spire if by so doing they were enabled to hear the 
utterances of this man whose notoriety is universal. There was 
nothing particularly strildng about the discourse. There was an 
eloquent allusion to the t\vittering birds that so fill the green boughs 
of the trees, in the seclusion of the country — the same feathered 
songsters that sang in the heart of that little, lone woman as she 
dusted "father's'^' chair ready for his reception when he "dropped 
in" of a moiTiing for a frolic with Theo's rolicking children. The 
long, gray locks of this afflicted pastor were none too smoothly 
brushed ; he wore no shining suit of broad cloth with the elements 
of newness about it, but plain and imvarnished, he stood before us 
with an unfa^ltering faith in the gospel, that religious barque that 
had boitled with the assailants of his reputation, and upon whose 



52 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

banners waving at the mast-head, he hoped to inscribe — victory! 
I saw an aged, son"ow stricken form in a seat near the front; her 
silver hair was smoothly brushed away fro'in her wrinkled brow; her 
sweet face bore the impress of christian forbeai-ance a,nd wifely for- 
giveness, and innocence sat enthroned in ever}'' lineament. She 
was the wife of lb 'iny Ward Beecher. A poor looking old man, 
who wore a skull-cap, presided at the org;)n, and the choir of sixty 
or more, at the close of the sennon, continued to woi-ship the God 
of our fathers in grand anthems whose melod}' filled my soul. By 
the discourse I had failed to be lifted up, but the music was such as 
hath power to "calm the savage breast to peace." In the afternoon 
I was escorted to Prospect Park, containing five hundred and fifty 
acres. Huge, old trees contribute to its shade, and cooling rills 
take one in imagination to the depths of the country. It contains 
eight miles of drives. The lake covers sixty-one acres. We pass 
the Sabbath evening at home in pleasant conversation. 



CHAPTER XV. 

'ON DAY moniing, October '2d, we repair to New York City 
for a view of Central Park, one of the largest and finest in 
the world, containing eight hundred and forty-three acres, entered 
at eighteen different points. It is crossed by four streets, to afford 
opportunity for traffic which pass under the park and drives. Be- 
tween 79th and 96th streets ai-e two Croton reservoirs, one compris- 
ing thirty-five and th(; other one hundred and seven acres. The 
five lakes oixnipy forty-three and one-half acres. . There are ten 
miles of carriage roads and thirty miltis of foot paths. The Mall 
near the fifth Avenue entrance, is the principal promenade, shaded 
by elm trees in double rows. We were disappointed at not hearing 
the band in the Music Pavilion. At the termination of the Mall is 
the Terrace, a lofty pile of masonry richly carved. We descended 
the Terrace by a flight of broad stone steps, and beheld Centi-al 



CKNTRAI, PAKK. f>'\ 

Lake with its waters sparkling in the sunlight, and fragile boats 
dancing on the surface. Between the Terrace and the Lake we saw 
a fountain whose cost is said to excel any on the continent. There 
is a colossal statue of the Angel of Bethesda. We entered the 
American Museum of Natural History,' which occupies the old State 
Arsenal. We saw savage animals, and birds without number, 
with the most lovely plumage. Monkeys chattered and performed 
various antics for our amusement, and a huge seal sci'eached and 
floundered in a tank constructed for its use. Animals with strange 
humps and horns, grazed in an enclosure, and altogether our stay 
at the Park was most delightful. In a tour of the city we pass 
Bellevue hospital, the largest in the city, accommodating one thou- 
sand two hundred paiients. Blackwells IsUmd, one hundred and 
twenty acres in extent, is pointed out tome as containing the prison 
where Tweed was confined. We pass the Tombs, a gloomy look- 
ing structure indeed. We also pass a building commenced by 
Tweed, but unfinished, and now under its rains live disreputable 
characters. By this time it is mid-day, and we have reached the 
house occupied by an old school-mate of mine, whose birth-day 
would have been coeval with mine, had it occuiTcd a week sooner. 
I remember him only, as a handsome, curly-headed boy, whose 
juvenile attentions were much sought after, and I was unprepared 
for the sight of a stalwart man with banking res})onsibilities upon 
his shoulders, the husband of a dear little woman and the father of 
a bright-eyed boy, witli shining curls, and the sweetest of smiles 
and rosiest of cheeks and lips. After partaking of their hospitality 
for a short hour, we visit Stewart's store, constructed of iron paint- 
ed white, and five stories high. No sign or placard advertise the 
elegance within, or mar the beauty of the i:)lain exterior. Its in- 
terior presents an aspect of neatness, and order and richness is dis- 
played on every hand. We mingle in the Babel of confuson on 
Broa-'lway, and note its unsurpassed splendor without envy. We 
take a look at Washington Square, containing eight acres, and 
Steinway's piano rooms, and other places of interest that I shall 
note in summing up my description of this wonderful city. We 
arrive at Brooklyn, fatigued in mind and body, but I am not so 
exhausted but what I do full justice to the bountiful supply of edi- 
bles spread for our epicurean enjoyment. To me, there is no com- 
parison in the goodness between the substantial food found upon 
the tables of private families and served by familiar, cleanly hands, 



•t4 Twr:r-VK ptatks axh a kingdom. 

and that obtained at the eommon run of public hout^os, prepared in 
dirty kitchens and dished np by bhwik servants, who in all proba- 
bility have scratched their vvooly heads preparatory to mixing the 
busciiit, or as a seasoning- process, slapped their colored brother in 
the ("vice with tin' bei}f-steak before placing it over the coals. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

^f|T^HE six o'clock meal dispatched, we decide to return to New 
' York City, and attend the concert given at Gilmore's Gar- 



den that evening. Those of my readers who have ever indulged in 
the youthful sport of playing in "Gideon's band," whei'e each jolly 
juveiiile is allotted a chimerical instrument upon which he is sup- 
posed to execute, in pantomime, the most ditYicult airs, quite inde- 
pendent of his neighbors melody, I which is in operation at the same 
time) but which instiiunent they must immetliately relinquish, and 
mimic their leader as he in turn plays on the ditferent imaginary 
instruments, and woe be to the neoterical musician if he does not 
follow the movements of the master, — with this experience before 
you, you can form an idea of how I was affected bj- Gilmore's Grand 
Orchestra, each member of which blew enough wind through their 
brass horns to raise any roof less firmly rivited than the one cover- 
ing the Concert Garden. The »ois« was a success; the melody/ a 
failure; that is, from where I sat, and my proximate companions 
agreed with me. Personally, Gilmore is grand and stately, and no 
doubt master of all he undertakes. He certainly had those ladies 
and gentleman under the i)erfect control of the stick he Nourished 
in his gloved hand, and the Inight br.ltons on his military uniform, 
flashed in the gas light with all tlie brilliancy of a purer metal. 
The vocal part of the peribruiance was i.'ither Ijeyond my apprecia- 



GTDEOn's r.AXD UXDKK OILMORK. o5 

tion or else it did not amount to much, and I am inclined to tlie 
latter statement, for 1 consider myself a judge of such common 
song-s as the "Star Spang-led Banner," but on an attempted rendi- 
tion of that national air by Madame Somebody, T was puzzled to 
know whether the old flag still waved in the good old tashioned 
way or whether the terrific squall then prevailing had nut torn our 
emblem of freedom in tatters. Women arc taking great lil)erties 
with the rights of men now-a-days, bnt when a full biass l>and. 
composed of long-wmded Germans, gets ready to play, 1 think it is 
time for a woman to wind up her trills; but this Madam kept right 
on amid the din of wind instruments as if her voice was being ac- 
companied by the dulcet tones of harp or guitar instead of the deaf- 
ening roar of a hurricane. And how she did scream in falsetto 
tones that would have burst the bonnet- strings of any modest 
maiden, member of a village church choir. The cornet solos exe- 
cuted by Mr. M. Arbuckle and Mr. J. Le\'y', were the only acts 1 
could heartily applaud, and their musical talents are certainly un- 
equaled in this or foreign climes. The "Grarden" was decorated 
with blooming flowers, and ornamented with statuary and rustic 
seats, and near the entrance was a cavern adown whose rocky sides 
water trickled melodiously. The scene was lit by colored gas 
light, resembUng round balls, and placed equidistant^ in semi-cir- 
cles over our heads. But all the beauty was marred by stiihng 
tobacco smoke and incessant beer drinking. I was glad to escape 
the fumes and breathe again the pure out-door air. if one can call 
air pure that is constantly being appropriated by such a conglom- 
erate mass of humanity as is sheltered under the municipal law of 

the Empii-e City. I again meet my W acquaintances, and find 

they have as much comprehensiveness of the musical performance 
as myself. We cross the feriy by moonlight, and standing on the 
deck of the boat, the Great All Seeing Eye seemed to have singled 
us out and b?amed upon us with loving watchfulness an 1 benignity. 
I could imagme no crime committed on such an eft'ulgtnt night. 
The heavens spake too plaiidy of the glory of the All father, and 
the vigilance of the angels must be of avail under the radiance of 
this lunar and stellar light. 



66 TWKIA'R STATICS AND A KfNGDOM, 



CHAPTER XVII. 

^^itUESDAY morning, October Md, I bid adieu to my Brooklj'n 
^^ friends, and meeting Mrs. D. at the ferry, we took tii'st the 
horse cars then the steam cars for Coney Island. On our arrival 
there we meandered the sandy beach and inhaled the fi-esh sea 
breezes and shuddered the while at the wreck and ruin these dar- 
ing waves might cause, did we permit a freedom of their caresses. 
We gathered the soft, white sand and sea-shells, and then sat down 
to listen to the ever murmuring sea. The billows of the Atlantic 
wafted no tales to our receptive ears. We watched a sail recede 
from view with gi-ateful feelings that we wei-e on solid terra-finna. 
The next point of interest was Greenwood cemetery, said to be the 
most beautiful in the world, and containing four hundred and thir- 
teen acres. Since 1842, one hundred and seventy-eight thousand 
interments have been made. The main entrance is one hundred 
and thirty-two feet long and forty feet deep, the pinnacle in the 
center being one hundred and six feet high. It is sculptured with 
scenes from the bible, the main ones being the entombment and 
resurrection of Christ. The grounds have seventeen miles of car- 
riage roads and fifteen miles of footpaths. The soldiers monument 
on a raise of ground, presents a view of the two cities, and their 
surrounding waters. The sun shone wannly down upon the green 
sodded roofs under which slept the inhabitants of this silent necro- 
polis, but alas its revivifying rays were lost, for, if we believe the 
scriptures, not till the dread Judgment Day when the last trump 
shall sound, shall these bodies be quickened and arise and depart 
to the right or left, as the Omnipotent hand may dictate. The 
costly, imposmg monument spoke not more plainly of a remem- 
brance of the dear departed, than did the toys and homely tokens 
of love aiTanged in glass cases and placed o'er the graves of the 
little darlings recalled to heaven. The tod and worry in the busy, 



THE CITY OF cnuRcnEs. 57 

bustling world, will never cease to add new inmates to these sub- 
terranean homes. The work was still going on, and a heap of moist, 
fresh earth, marked the place where an open grave was waiting for 
the interment of some soulless body. But tor such deep gulfs of 
despair in the pathway of life, many a journey through this v.^orld 
would be made in gaiety and worldliiiess, vdth never an uplook 
toward heaven or a thought of the eternal. While we resume our 
long street-car ride and bid adieu to Brooklyn, perhaps for ever, I 
will detail a few of its most interesting points not yet mentioned. 
It is the third largest city in the United States, separated from 
New York by the East river, and is at the west end of Long Island. 
From north to south it is seven and three-fourths miles long, and 
its average breadth is three and one -half miles. It was settled in 
1625. On the Heights back of the city the battle of Long Island 
was fought August 26th 1776, and the Americans were defeated 
with a loss of two-fifths of their men engaged. Its population in 
1870 was ;'96,099. It has few hotels, but many fine boulevard's, 
and is known as the "City of Churches." R. S. Storrs is the pastor 
of the Church of the Pilgrims, and Talmage's Tabernacle is said to 
be the largest Protestiint Church in America. The United States 
Navy Yard covers forty- five acres of ground. The Dry Dock is 
said to be one of the most remarkable structures of the kind in the 
worid, is built of granite and cost $2,li;:!,17a. It holds 610,000 
gallons of water and can be emptied by steam pumps in four and 
one-half hours. The Atlantic Dock has an area of foity-two and 
one-half acres, and water of sufficient depth to accommodate the 
largest ships. The wharfage is two miles in extent. "The piers 
are of solid granite, and surrounding the basin on all sides, except 
an entrance two hundred feet wide for vessels, are substantial brick, 
and granite warehouses. In crossing Fulton ferry to or from New 
York the massive towers of the bridge are conspicuous objects. 
Their height above high water is two hundred and sixty-eight feet. 
The bridge itself when completed will be six tliousand feet long, 
and the span across the river from tower to tower one thousand five 
hundred and ninety- five feet long. It will be eighty-five feet wide 
including a promenade of thirteen teet, two railroad tracks and 
four wagon or horse car tracks. From high water mark to the floor 
of the bridge in the center, will be a distance of one hundred and 
thirty-five feet, so that na\agation will not be impeded. The 
approach on the Brooklyn side from the terminus to the anchorage, 
8 



58 TWELVE STATES AND A KINCDOM. 

will measure eight hundred and thirty-six feet; on the Xew York 
side, one thousand three hundred and thirt.y-six feet. Its cost will 
be about $10,000,000." We reach Broadway, New York, in the 
Dfiiddle of the afternoon and perambulate till evening this great 
central thoroughfare of the city eighty feet wide, and stopping at 
some of the mammoth retiiil stores, wf; make a few puix'hases, there 
by familiarizing ourselves with the manners and customs of the elite 
of the city while they are out on their shopping expiditions, sending 
in their orders for some such trifle as a bit of lace, or diamond pin, 
the bill for which amounts to himdreds of dollars, but the cost is 
immaterial to those favored votaries of tashion rolling in their 
wealth, yet often laclcing two of the most desirable elements of 
life — health and happiness. Weak and faint with the days travels 
and fast, the six o'clock dinner-bell at Mrs. D.'s boarding house, 
where we were stopping, was a pleasant sound to hear, and I ciuite 
forgot good, old Dr. Hall's admonitions about hearty evening 
meals, as the variety of viands was placed before me in pursuance 
to my orders. After a half hours pleasant converse in the parlor, 
we repaired to our rooms seeking the repose we so much needed. 
Before my eyes danced alternately the gay and solemn splendors 
that had made of the day a brief dream. The tinkling car-bell and 
rumbling wheels on the pavements reverberated in my ears. One 
moment 1 was rejoicingwiththose who rejoiced, the next, mourning 
with those who mourned. Now, standing on some dizzy pinnacle 
taking a bird's eye A-iew of land and water below, again, I was 
tossed by the ocean's billows, or floatuig idly down some limped 
stream. Women, attired in costly velvets and dazzling diamonds, 
led by the liand ragged urchins and decrepit old men. Horses 
■with heads like lions and tails of seipents, were gaily caparisoned 
and attached to elegant barouches, whose inmates were the resur- 
rected fi-om the mausoleums of Greenwood, in long, white robes 
and staiTy crowns upon their foreheads, emblazoned with the warn- 
ing words, "Tis better to go to the house of mourning than to the 
house of feasting." 



AFTKK SUPPEU GHOSTS. '59 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

(j|\ MONG the geographical and historical accounts of tlie city of 
^v^V New York, none are so explicit as the description of that 
renowned city, found in the "Hand-Book of American Cities," and 
the author of that valuable work will pardon me if I cull from its 
pages much useful information, an'ogating nothing to myself but 
giving the praise to him, to whom it is justly due. "'This great 
commercial metropolis of the United States, and largest city of the 
western Hemispliere, is situated at the mouth of the Hudson river 
on New York Bay. It covers the entire surface of Manhattan 
Island, as well as numerous other islands in the East river. Its 
extreme length north from the Battery, is sixteen miles. Its great- 
est width from the Hudson to the Bronx river, is four and one-half 
miles. It covers twenty-six thousand five hundred acres, of which 
twelve thousand acres are on the mainland. Manhattan Island, on 
which the city proper stands is three and one-half miles long, and 
varies in breadth from a few hundred yards, to two and one -fourth 
miles — ha\dng an era of fourteen thousajid acres, to which the 
islands in the East river add four hundi-ed more. The harbor of 
New York is one of the finest and most picturesque in the world. 
(Perhaps the time is not far distant when its rival will be that of 
San Diego, California, whose praises are already being bruited by 
officious reporters and anxious railroad officials.) The outer bar of 
New York harbor is at Sandy Hook, eighteen miles from the Bat- 
teiy. Hendrick Hudson, an Englishman, in the service of the 
Dutch East India Company arrived at the site of the present city, 
September 3d, 1601). He afterwards ascended the river as far as 
the site of Albany, and claimed the land by right of discovery, as 
an appendage of Holland. In 1614 a Dutch colony came over and 
began a settlement. In 1664 it was suirendered to the British, 
and passing into the hands of the Duke of York, was called New 
York. In 1696 Trinity Church was founded. In 1711 a slave 



60 TWKLVE STATKS AND A KINODOJt. 

market was established in Wall street. The Aineiican army under 
Washington occniiied the city in 177(), but after the battles of Long' 
Island and Harlem Heights, it was captured by the British forces 
and remained their headquarters for seven years, llie British 
troo[)S evacuated the city November 2'')th 1783. The Erie canal was 
completed in 182-"). It is estimated that there are one million five 
hundi-ed thousand persons in New York at noon on every secular 
day. Delmonico's restaurant, at the comer of Tith Avenue and 
14th street, is one of the best dining: places in the world, and is 
famous for its elaborate dinners. The Grand Central Depot, in 
42d street, between 4th and Madison Avenue, is the largest and 
finest in tiie country; it cost nearly $2,2-")0,000. It is six hundred 
and ninety-two feet long' and two hundred and forty feet wide, and 
admits one hundred and fifty cars. The depot of tlie Pennsylvania 
railroad is reached by ferries, from foot of Desbrosses and Court- 
land streets. The elevated railway runs from the Battery to 
Central Park, at 59th street. The track is supported by iron pillars 
and the cars are luxurious, and drawn by small locomotives. Wall 
street, less than a half mile long, running from Broadway opposite 
Trinity Church to the East river, is the monetaiy centre of the 
country. It contains the custom-house and United States sub- 
treasury. Fifth Avenue is the favoiite promenade, and almost 
exclusively devoted to private residences. Castle Garden, on the 
sea-verge of the Battery, was built in 1807 as a fortress, (Castle 
Clinton.) It was ceded to the city in 182-'!, and was the scene of 
the civic receptions of the Marquis de Lafayette, Gto. Jackson, 
President Tyler and others. Subsequently it became an opera 
house, and here Jenny Lind, Sontag and Mario made their appear- 
ance. The building is now used as a depot for immigrants, and the 
chief recei\nng and distributing reservoir of the great tide of immi- 
gration from Europe. Bowling Green, the cradle of New York, is 
just north of the Battery; in the times of the Dutch it was the court 
end of town, and sun-ounded by the best houses. The Kennedy 
House, No. 1, Broadway, was built in 1760, and is one of the most 
interesting relics now left standing. In colonial times it was the 
heart of the fashion in the colony, having been sccessfuUy the resi- 
dence and headquarters of Lords Corawallis and Howe, Gen. (Sir 
Henry) Clinton and Gen. Washington. Talleyrand also lived there 
during his stay in this countiy. Arnold occupied No. 5, Broadway, 
and in Clinton's headquarters his treasonable projects were con- 



in>:rT fkai^ds. 61 

certed. Fulton died in 181') in a room in the present Wiishington 
Hotel. Washington's farewell intei-view w-ith the officers, took 
place at France's tavern, comer of Tearl and Broad streets, long 
since removed. The new posfoffice cost between six and seven 
million dollars, and was occupied in ;>7-'). The new Court House, 
occupied since 1867, but not yet completed, has walls of white 
marble; the beams and staircases are of iron. The cost of the 
building and furnitui-e was over $12,000,000; the result of the 
notorious "Ring frauds" of which it was the insti-ument. The 
United States sub-treasury is a white marble building at the corner 
of Wall and Nassau streets. Formerly the old Federal Ha 1 stood 
on this site, and the spot is as classic as that whereon Washington 
delivered his inaugural address. The new Tribune budding is the 
loftiest on the island, and the largest and best appointed newspa- 
per office in the world, and is absc^utely fire-proof. A. T. Stewart's 
marble building, devote<l to wholesale trade, stands on the site of 
one of the piincipal forts erected by the British for the dffVn^e of 
the city during the Revolution. Stewai-ts palace, as it is called, on 
the comer of 5th Avenue and 34th street, is the finest private resi- 
dence in America. It is of white marble, three stories high, besides 
the basement and mansard roof, and cost $3,000,000. A fine 
galleiy of paintings is one of its chief attractions. Manhattan 
market, at the foot of :j4th street, North river, is one of the largest 
structures of the kind in the world, and adjoining it is a plaza, 
capable of accommodating five hundred wagons. The National 
Academy of design, corner of 4th Avenue and 2od street, is a unique 
bnilding of gray and white marble and blue stone. The plan of the 
extenor was copied from a famous palace in Venice. There are 
about three hundred and seventy churches of all denomimitions in 
the city. Trinity Church (Episcopal) has the finest chime of bells 
in America. In the grave-yar surrounding the church are the 
tombs of Alexander Hamilton, Robert Fulton and Charlotte 
Temple. The yard covers nearly two acres of ground. Dr. Tyng 
presides over St. George's (Episcopal) Church, ■ ne f the largest in 
the city. The Church of the Transfiguration (Episcopal) is known 
as "the little church around the comer," and is noted for its half 
rustic, picturesque character. Dr. Chapin presides ver the Divine 
Paternity (Universalist). The largest church edifice in the city, and 
one of the largest and finest on the continent is St. Patrick's Cathe- 
dral, in 5th Avenue, and but half finished. There are upward of 



62 TWKr.VK STATKS AND A KINGDOM'. 

four liinidrcd scliools and institutions of learning In the city, and 
two hundred and tliirty-nine charitable institutions. Cooper Insti- 
tute founded and endowed by Peter Cooper, has three thousand 
students in all departments. Opposite is the Bible House, the prop- 
erty of the American Bible Society, next to the British, the largest> 
in the world, and here all the operations of that important organi- 
zation ai*e earned on. The Five Points House of industiy and Five 
Points Mission face each other on what was once the vilest and 
most dang-erous part of the city. The Battery at the south extrem- 
ity of the city, looking out on the Bay embraces twenty-one acres. 
Hell (late, long the terror of vessels entering or leaving the harbor 
by way of Long Island Sound, is a collection of rocks in the chan- 
nel which ottering much resistance to the tides causes a succession 
of whirlpools and rapids." This dangerous place was the scene of 
the great explosion before mentioned, which took place Sunday 
September 24th 1876. Much hard labor yet remains to be per- 
formed before the rocky barriers entirely disappear. Thus endeth 
our tour of New York City, guided by the friendly hand of "D. 
Appleton, it Co.," whose handsome publishing house stands in the 
vicinity of the St. Nicholas and Metropolitan Hotels. But for the 
useful knowledge gained from the descriptive volumes issuing from 
that great house, 1 should long' since have become bewildered in 
some of the narrow, mixed up streets of the city, or hopelessly 
strahded on the ocean of its grandeur. 



TRIP XTP THE niTDSOI^. 63 



CHAPTER XIX. 

C^C^J^EDNESDAY Diorning October fourth, burst upon us in 
H^i^Htv' truly oriental s]>lenilor and ere the fifth matutinal hour 
was reached, my garments were arranged with reference to the 
day's duties and pleasures, the firet of which was the pursuit of 
my second self during this tnp, namely,— my trunk. It had been 
checked from Brooklpi to some pier from which the day-boat from 
New York city to Albany plied the Hudson, but ivhkh pier had 
been the momentous question of the waking hours of the previous 
night, and my morning thoughts were agitated to that pitch that 
even the enticements of a downy bed and early drepms "sure to 
come true," had not the power to woo me. Leaving the sharer 
of my conch, the partner of my joys and sorrows pro tem, our dear 
sister Doyle, to indulge in the luxury the center of a wann bed is 
sure to produce, I set forth for the pier nearest our boarding place, 
some dozen blocks distant, making freq-^ent inquiries of policemen 
to assure myself I was facing the right direction, and then 1 went 
ahead in true Westonian style. 

On reaching my destination I found the baggage master was 
yet in the land of dreams and all was silent as a deserted fort, 
deserted save one sentinel, who guarded what I supposed to be 
the little Le\'iathan chained to this pier, but which afterward 
proved to be the steamer "Armenia," that was destined to rock 
us on the bosom of the Hudson for miles northward, but vain were 
its wooings, and, dreamy as were the sounds of the rippling waves' 
our eyes could not close and shut out God's master-piece of crea- 
tion — the banks of the Hudson. But I must not leave that sent- 
inel standing guard so long, not wi'h gun in hand, but a wooden 
bucket which he now and then lowered to the water — filled and 
dashed on the head of this animal, this huge Leviathan that sat 



64 TAVEl.VE STATES AND A KINGDOM, 

on the face of llie waters so triuinpliantly. I ventured an inquiry 
as to where 1 niioht find the person in charge of the ba^.'-gage 
stowed at that point. The galhuit marine leaped from the back 
of the animal and soon aroused Irom slumber ihe tardy baggage 
master. But the trunk to me of all trunks, was not there, and I 
turned my back on that wharf detennined to lose no time in 
reaching Thirty-ninth pier, one and a half miles distant. "That 
Bi'ooklyn expressman must have the absent-mindedness of a 
Beecher who mistook Tilton's house for his own,"' I said to myself 
as t indignantly hailed a street-car. The track ran parallel with 
the river, and casting niy eyes over the inmates of the crowded 
car, visions of all I had heard and read of river rats, kidnappers, 
thieves and murderers, arose in my mind and I was right in their 
midst judging from a pnmn facin view of the case. Even the Grab- 
man of Watseka, might be there disguised in the garb of a flay 
laborer in lien of his nocturnal imiform, and at an opportune 
moment might confront me with deniniciatory words as the cause 
of his exile from his native western wilds. If there was one more 
dirty and whose filth excelled in its age, it was he who offered me a 
seat. 1 took his place, however, sqiieezed in between two men 
whose \asages suggested the veritable Charley Ross captors. There 
was one female aboard and though she was of foreign extraction, 
shabby and evidently destitute of the cardinal graces, T was thank- 
ful for her presence and could well exclaim with brother Russell, 
"God bless the women !" For a weaiy half hour did that ctir drag 
at a snail's pace past dens of perdition that bordered the track on 
either side. I caught frequent views of the river lying so peaceful 
in the morning sunlight and wondered why God did not cause its 
waters to rise in a body a,nd sweep from the earth such wTetched- 
ness as o'ershadowed its banks. Ten thousand times ten thousand 
fathoms of the Hudson would it take to cleanse this footstool of its 
sinan<l iniquity; thus the waters are left for man to utilize in the 
transpoiiation of freight, animate and inanimate, from north to 
south, from east to west, lliii-ty-ninth pier was reached at last and 
a polished mulatto, polished in manners and complexion, answered 
my questions as to where I would be most likely to find my ti'unk. 
The nuiscles that had gnulually strengthened during my centennial 
trip, did not fail me now as I ran with what speed my trailing skirts 
would allow, past doors leading I cared not whither, foi', like a 
hound that has caught its first sight of the game it is pui'suing, had 



THAT TRUNK. 65 

T a glimpse of the treasure of uiy soul — the casket containing the 
nil of womanldnd — her best clothes. I could not be mistaken. 
Almost within my grasp rolled a truck, guided by the hand of some 
stout foreigner, who perhajis carried *in his pocket his precious 
naturalization papers of recent date, the effect of the importunities 
of some disciple of Tilden and Hendricks, who had secured him (or 
his vote) for the presidential election, the resuk. of which is yet in 
the dim distance. But that trunk. It was not of the Flora 
McFlimsy order, but a modest unpretentious looking affair, well 
secured by half of the home clothes line, which, hitherto tenaciously 
guarded, had been ruptured for this sacred purpose. Over the 
clothes line was bound a broad, new leathern strap, and altogether 
to an observmg mind that trvmk had the appearance of perfect 
security. If those things did give out, it would be a clear case of 
the perversity of inanimate nature. Do you ask did I know that 
trunk .•* Know it ? Was I not instinctively guided to it among the 
contusion of baggage in that babel city of brotherly love, Philadel- 
phia? Every jam and bruise on that trunk were like so many inci- 
sions in my proud flesh. Well, I caught that supposed voter of the 
Tilden ticket and told him where that precious baggage was des- 
tined. He pledged me his word (and who doubts a democrat's 
word?) that it would be safely consigned to the steamer "Daniel 
Drew," consequently, would be drawn to Albany in due time. I 
returned the way I had come, rejoicing. What little jewelry I pos- 
sessed I kept carefully concealed under my cloak, and landing 
safely at the comer of West Fourteenth street, I soon found the 
number from whence I had started some two hours before. But 
what was my consternation on finding our beloved sister Doyle, 
usually so wide awake on society nights, still slumbering, peace- 
fully without a sigh or a snore. "Only three-quarters of an hour 
for breakfast and the pier!" I shouted, and, there was running in 
hot haste and mustering of super-human strength in the arraying 
of humanity for the day's battle. 

With me, breakfast is something that will not bear abridg- 
ment, and one-half of that three-quarters of an hour I passed in 
communion with the waiters of that establishment, the beefsteak 
and hot biscuit, eschewing the half ripe tomatoes so temptingly 
arranged at my right hand. This was but the begining ot a day 
of fast for Mrs. Doyle, and the proprietress of the house made at 

9 



66 TWKME STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

least seven liumlri'd per cent, on the seventy-five cents charged for 
that meal. 1 can safely say no such i)rofit was ever made on viands 
placed at my disposal. 

Some of the members of our society have had occasion to com- 
pete with Mrs. Doyle for the honors of pedestrianism, and I need 
only say that she was then as ever the winner in the race to the 
wharf. Twelve miuutes to catch our breath and we were ushered 
on board the "Armenia," and soon the clanking of chains and 
creaking of machinery inaugurated our trip up the Hudson. Our 
attention was first attracted by a colored imlividual who seemed 
to have great concern lest there Avas some "Irish gentleman aboard 
that had been left behind," and by the ringing of what reminded 
me of a great dinner-bell wanted us to particularly understand that 
this boat tarried not at Tarry town. 

The stewardess, a genuine African, whose hair rivaled her com- 
plexion in whiteness, and frizzled most naturally without the appli- 
cation of hot irons, peraml>ulated the cabin with smiles on her 
Ethiopian visage, and kindness m her heart. 

While I shall not enter into any extended guide-book descrip- 
tion of the loveliness of th(^ Hudson river scenery, yet I am justly 
indebted to its pjiges for many of my illustrations. If in 1609 
Henry Hudson had not made this wonderful discovery for us, the 
gloiy might have been left for some successful female navigator. If 
in imagination we wander back to those primitive times, how shall 
we compare the perfection of the wildness of the seventeenth cen- 
tury with the perf'ectness of cultivation of the nineteenth V 

How futile must be even my best cttbrfs at a description of the 
grandeur of this Kden of America upon the one hand, while upon 
the other, peak ujion peak of cragged rocks rise to such a height 
that we may fancy the angels perchijig upon them as they take 
their flight between the two worlds. This river whose beauty and 
utility are acknowledged by the whole world, is an offspring of the 
Adirondack mountains and bears the likeness of its parents along 
its banks for the three hundred miles of its course to the ocean. All 
the poetized beauties of the Rhine are monotonous compared to the 
ever varj'ing landscape along the Hudson. Xot being a German, 
we eschew the beer gardens of Hoboken, and the aiTay of breweries 
that line the banks and sail soberly on our way. What a shame 
that tlie Ijeauties of nature must, even on historic ground, be marred 
by distilleries, propagators of intemperance. At the base of the 



N.VTURK AND AKT CONTRASTED. 67 

Weehawken hills, in 1804, occurred the duel between Alexander 
Hamilton and Aaron Burr, which resulted in the death of the states- 
man Hamilton. At'Fort Lee begin the palisades, a term applied 
to a wall of rocks, over twenty miles, along the western liank of the 
river. They are narrow, being in some places not more than three- 
quarters of a mile wide. The situation for summer uses is admira- 
ble, salubrious air and unbounded prosjject. While the westenr 
shore is one of barrrn rock, the eastern, in striking contrast, blos- 
soms out with greenest verdure, fairest flowers, most beautiful 
villas, an aristocratic display unmarred by a single common feature. 
Two miles below the town of Yonkers are Mount St. Vincent, and 
the castle-like residence, now a part of St. Vincent, but formerly 
the residence of the tragedian, Edwin FoiTest. It is a Roman 
catholic convent school for girls, and while famous for its educa- 
tional advantages, I trust our western daughters may be free from 
the pernicious instructions its name suggests. We are told the 
buikling is of red brick, certainly not charming to the eye, but as 
"distance lends enchantment to the view," I found the sight par- 
ticularly pleasing and the old castle inspired me with feelings of 
awe. I shall not attempt a description of the various to\vns we 
reached, as the appearance of all river towns at the water's edge is 
unprepossessing, and the visuals orbs are greeted with the backs of 
tumble-down looking buildings, coal elevators and debris that 
eveiywhere line the wharves. 

It cannot be expected that a minute description be given of 
what I have not seen, therefore of Sunnyside, the home of Wash- 
ington Irving, I remain silent, but on the opposite shore I remem- 
ber Nyack, and the glimpses of its loveliness, I took in during the 
brief time allotted me. Tarrytown, twenty -nine miles fi-om New 
York, Washington Irving tells us was so named by the hcfusewives 
of the neighboring country, in consequence of the inveterate pro- 
pensity of their husbands to linger about the village taverns. The 
name might not be inappropriately applied to some western towns 
we might mention. The Dutch called it Wheat To\vn, because of 
the abundance of that cereal on the hills and valleys around. It 
seems as if nature had outdone herself at this point, and indeed 
nothing but elegance greets the eye for miles as we glide along the 
smooth waters and marvel at the harmonious comljination of the 
works of God and man. With a description of the craft of the 
Hudson I feel myself totally unable to cope, my knowledge of navi- 



68 TWKLVK STATKS AXD A KIXGDOM. 

gation bein^' limited, mid but for tlic horses I can barely distinguish 
between a brig and a canal boat. The historic account of Tarry- 
town is associated with thi; story of Arnold an(> Andre. The latter 
tamed too long on his visit to Arnold, and was arrested on a spot 
now -within the precincts of the town. Washington Irving attend- 
ed Divine service at this town, Sunnyside being only three miles 
distant. He lies hurried near the old Dutch church at Sleepy 
Hollow. I would fain claim relationship with this illustrious per- 
sonage. His mother's name was Sarah. 

When we are sweltering under the heat of the sultiy days of 
the summer of 1(S77, it will be comforting to think that the previous 
year we passed so near the famous Rockland lake embosomed in 
the hills near Nyiu-k, from which comes the greater portion of ice 
used in New York, and probably the largest ice market in the 
world. One thousand men are employed in cutting and storing ice, 
some two hundred thousand tons being the annual supply. 

Thirty-three miles from New York. Sing Sing with its horrible 
suggestions looms before our view. Its appellation is derived from 
the Indian name Ossiving, meaning "stone upon stone." The 
prison was founded in 1826. The building has been erected by the 
convicts, of stone quarried on the spot. What may have been the 
incentive to labor actuating those prisoners while rearing this 
secure home tor themselves, those of us who have never been 
deprived of our freedom may never know. It has an iron foundry, 
and manufactories of shoes, whips, saddles andfui-niture. llius the 
covering for our feet may have been made by hands in bondage — 
the elasticity of the whips their fingers have woven, may have been 
tried over their own backs, because of their disobedience to prison 
laws. While their deft hands made finii the leathern saddle-gir- 
dle their'eyes may have gaze d in vain at the hills over which they 
may never ride, mounted on steeds fleet in their freedom. Even in 
those prison walls is shown the supremacy of woman, as her prison 
house stands to the east on higher ground, and she whiles away the 
tedious hours in making clothing. The building for refractorj' 
females is of marlile and has one hundred and eight cells, while for 
men twelve hundred cells are pre[)ared, showing in which sex lies 
the preponderance of pci-versity. 

About four miles above Sing Sing, Croton river enters the 
Hudson. Six miles up the i-iver is Croton lake, from which New 



ELir.lRLK IirSBANDS. 69 

York city is supplied with water, conducted by an aqueduct, over 
forty miles long. l)y sixteen tunnels and over twenty bridges. 

At Kidd's point, now called Caldwells' landing, we enter the 
Highlands. Fifty-one miles from New York is West Point, rightly 
named so far as our observation serves us, as from the steepness of 
the rocks, the denseness of foliage, hut a point of the beauties of 
this place is to be seen from the boat landing. I am told love- 
making is carried on here in the summer season, regularly and 
harmlessly. In 1812, an act was passed by congress, authorizing 
the establishment of the Military Academy, on its present broad 
foundations and its organizations and ai^pointments have steadily 
improved. No luxuries are permitted, and the students are trained 
to endure the rigors of the active militaiy life for which they are 
preparing. This accounts for the harmlessness of the darts of love 
which are annufilly hurled at them by the fairest of Hudson's fair 
daughters. In choosing a husband, I recommend the West Point 
Cadets to the young ladies as being better prepared for married 
life, inasmuch as they have not been allowed waiters, horses or 
dogs, at this military school, and each student is compelled to make 
his own bed and clean up his own tobacco (for I do not suppose the 
managers of the institution are so cruel and unmindful of what is so 
conducive to the health and happiness of man, as to deprive these 
sons of war of that fragrant, comforting weed.) Lights are dark- 
ened at ten and the embryo soldier is sui^posed to go to sleep. In 
choosing, be sure you get one that conforms to the rules, for there 
are intimations that soldiers, like mice, need the vigilant eye of a 
staid feline to keep them from mischief. The insubordinate ones 
are known to indulge in what they call "midnight hash" consist- 
ing of various edibles mixed in the wash-basin and cooked over a 
gas stove produced from the chimney. If tlie current of these con- 
vivial spirits is inteixupted, the guests decamp and leave the host 
to explain the coid'usion. We read that upon the walls of the 
chapel are tablets bearing the names in gilt letters of the generals 
of the revolution. Benedict Arnold's has only the words "'Major 
General, bom l'^40" with furrows in the stone as if the inscription 
had been cut out. Would that each traitor to our country during 
this century could have a like mark of opprobrium set upon his 
memory. The remains of Gen. Winfield Scott rests in the ceme- 
tery at West Point. Near this place are two mountains, Stonii 
King, the highest point of the Highlands, 1,800 feet, and Cro'nest, 



70 TWKIAT: states AXD a KTNCiDOM. 

the latter, the. scene upon which was founded the chavniing poem 
entitled "The CulpiitFay," hy Joseph Rodman Drake. The author 
was then twenty-one, and upon this poem his fame chiefly rests, 
fdlewild. the home of N. P. Willis is hidden from our view. As a 
reljuke to the owners of some of the l»eautifnl grounds on the 
Hudson, who haA'e denied strangers admission to their homes, N. 
P. Willis says, "Doors niay lock, Ijut oul iloors is a freehold to feet 
and eyes." In this vicinity, T remember, the Hudson nver railroad 
is constructed over the water, and as we were passinj^, a long train 
of cars distanced us showdng at what a slow rate we were moving' 
compared to the fljdng iron horse attached to the rail cars. We 
were in sight of the railroad track the most of our way, and train 
after train flew past us, and after our weary eyes could gaze no 
longer, we half wished we were on lioard the Express l>ound for 
Albany. 

We pass Newburg. and that enormous l)ell again rings out 
and our ubiquitous darkey i)i stentorian tones thundered out, "The 
aft gangway for Poughkeepsie." We belie not the meaning of 
this word as we land in this ' 'safe and pleasant harbor. ' ' Near this 
place is the celebrated woman's college, founded by Matthew Vas- 
sar, at which three hundred and fifty young women are educated. 
The college contains one thousand doors, and cei-tainly there can be 
no lack of communion in that place. The student of nature can 
view her works from seven hundred and fifty windows. 

At several points along the river we have glimpses of the Cats- 
kill mountains stretching into invisible distance beyond the western 
bank. They rise abruptly from a plain on their eastern side and 
are ascended by a winding road at the edge of the deep glen, near 
the head of which is an amphitheatn;, inclosed Ijy lofty heights, 
where Hip Van Winkle fell into his long sleep of twenty years. 1 
had the pleasure of viewing the representation of these mountains 
at this point, in McVicker's theater, and the celebrated Joe Jeffer- 
son personated, as he alone can do, poor Rip and his oft-repented 
but uncontrohible habit of intemperance. Among these glorious 
scenes lived Cole, the artist who painted the "Voyage of Life." 
Catskill Landing is one hundred and eleven miles from New York, 
on the western shore. The Catslrill enters the river, near by, which 
is navigable for large vessels a mile from its mouth. Here Heniy 
Hudson anchored "The Half Moon," on the 20th of September, 
1609. 



ONE HUNDRED YEARS WITHOUT A LAWYER. 71 

We are neai'ing our place of destination, weary in body and 
mind, for we have carefully followed the beauteous display of 
nature the whole of the one hundred and forty -four miles from New 
York to Albany, with the exception of the time devoted to dinner 
and the unravelling- of that bill of fare, the dilficulty of which lay 
in making the prices and our pocket-books harmonize. The soup 
would have been admirably adapted to irrigating- purposes. The 
half of a roast chicken being sixty-five cents and sold in no less 
quantity, and having neither time nor inclination for such herculean 
task, we did not invest in fowl. Before leaving home I was told 
that I was going into a land of sweet potatoes. Whoever supplies 
the Hudson river boats with that palatable article must be a mil- 
lionaire, as for the half of a small potato ten cents is charged, but 
the dehciousness of the desert over-balanced the defectiv(^ness of 
the first portion of the meal, the high tariff notwathstanding. 

In the after-part of the day the sky became o"erclouded, and 
our imagination was called upon to supply the' warm tints the 
obscured sun withheld. As evening drew near, had a vision of 
paradise burst upon me 1 could not have been aroused from the 
apathy this surfeiting of beauty had evidently produced, and had 
it not been for the name of sleeping during a jouniey on the 
Hudson, I think I should have fallen into dreamland without an 
effort. But my fellow-travelers began to gather up their several 
satchels and bundles, and sleep was denied me, for I must be on 
the alert lest my precious satchel fall into the hand.s of thieves. 
If it be ti-ue that "As ye judge, so shall ye be judged," it is not 
a comforting thought to ruminate upon, that during one's travels 
they are looked upon with a suspicious eye, and instead of being 
considered innocent till found guilty, it is quite to the contrary and 
embezzlement is attributed as your besetting sin. 

Albany, the city that is said to have existed one hundred years 
■without a lawyer, is reached at last. The plank is thrown out and 
we endeavor to alight. The pleasures of the day being over, our 
trials commence. Having seen our baggage properly checked, 
satchel in hand, we set out on foot for Stanwix Hall, a short dist- 
ance from the boat landing. All the imps of darkness, fresh from 
the regions of the furies, could not h-ave besieged us as did the 
gamins of Albany, intent on relieving us of our hand baggage. 
Being two lone females in a strange city, we committed ourselves 



/2 TWKr-VK STATES AXD A KINGDOM. 

to the protecting care of a policeman, and succeeded in reaching" 
the hotel without loss — save that of temper. Deep darkness set 
in and heavily the rain drops fell, and we were glad to enjoy 
unch'sturbed the luxuries our rooms afforded. There were two 
suspicious lookuig doors, without bolt or key, leading from our 
bedrooni besides the one that connected it with our parlor, and 
being ever vigilant as to burglars, we secured them by removing 
our bedstead in such a manner as to ftisten both. We even tightly 
closed the transom, and shut ourselves in with feelings of perfect 
security and satisfaction — shut in trom the turmoil and bustle of 
the moving world; shut in from wind and wave and rolling tide; 
shut in with our blissful retrospection of all the delights the day 
had given us, the rapturous experience, an influence upon our lives 
that even four score years and ten may not dispel. Beautiful 
Hudson! Smoothly gliding waters. Rear on thy bosom precious, 
human fi-eightago, and if on earth our eyes no more behold thee, 
in spirit let us' nestle in thy mimic waves or hover among the 
gi-een, mossy dells that line thy banks. When the stonu king 
reigns 'mid the mountains and the barques toss wildly on the 
treacherous waters, may that voice still whisper as of old: •' Peace 
be still," 



A fOYETID M'OT. 73 



CHAPTER XX. 

(T\ LBANY, a city of over 80,000 inhabitants, is situated on the. 
^A> West hank of the Hudson, "at the head of sloop navigation 
and near the head of tide-water." In 1628 Fort Orange was builo 
where the city now stands, and next to Jamestown, in Virginia, 
was the earliest European settlement in the origuial thirteen states. 
It is the port of the great Erie canal from the West, which traver- 
ses the state from Albany to Buifalo parallel with the railroad, and 
Ohamplain canal from the North. The new Capitol when finished 
will be the largest and most magnificent structure in America, ex- 
cepting the Federal Capitol at Washington. The city has fifty- 
four churches. The elements conspire to make Thursday morning, 
October fifth, one of gloom, but if ever a place looked cheering and 
inviting to me, it was the breakfast room of Stanwix Hall on that 
veiy morning. The bill of fare embraced everything that was 
most appetizing, and during my two thousand miles journey, the 
credit of variety, wholesomeness and abundance, together with 
alacrity in serving, must rest with this house and combine to make 
that meal one of the most enjoyable of the many taken in public 
places during my extended tour. The New York Central railroad 
depot being near our hotel we walked thither while the rain f 11 in 
torrents, and once more were en route for a sight of familiar faces. 
We pass Schenectady, one of the oldest towns in the State of New 
York, and the road crosses the Mohawk river and Erie canal on a 
bridge nearly 1,000 feet long. The scenery consists of wild cas- 
cades, rapid rivers, and lovely green hills, under which are nestled 
homes of comfoit and elegance. We reach Utica, ninety-five 
miles from Albany, aljout noon and take the cars on the Delaware 
and Lackawanna road going South. Between Utica and Sherburne, 
our ]3lace of destination, 1 saw a coveted spot where 1 could rear a 
home and be happy. From our elevated position on the railway it 
10 



74 TWKI.VE STATES AND A KINOllOAr. 

seemed to be a basin siuTOumled by wooded hills, itself not devoid 
of cranny nooks, slight elevations and indi<,^enous pines, small lakes 
and clear streams, green pastures enclosed l)y symmetrical stone 
walls. There Avere sloping knolls where orchard trees bore red and 
golden fiiiit. No bottondess sloughs to engulf the traveller, but 
boggy morasses where grows the spicy wintergreen with ruby beriy. 
Beechnuts and chestnuts to be had for the gathering, and lovely 
ferns with no rattlesnakes entwined about their roots as among the 
wild flowers of the prairie. Though by the roadside the sheep 
seek sustenance apparently from the gi-avel stones that thickly strew 
their paths, their bleat is reverberated across the waters from hill to 
hill and they are content in their native pastures. Though the 
luscious fruit when shaken from its parent stem, rolls a quarter of a 
mile distant, it makes all the more meiTiment for the eager urchins 
that stretch out their hands to stop its progress. Now I catch the 
first glimpse I have had for .years, of a hop yard, and I am can-ied 
back to those frosty mornings and sweltering days when 1 helped to 
pick the hops of my neighbors, acquiring such digestion thereby, it 
seemed as if I could never get satisfied with those palatable viands 
among which were delicious rice puddings, so thickly embellished 
with raisins that there was one ibr each mouthful.- If the fat hop- 
worms were the ugliest feature in the business, the hop dances were 
not among the least of the pleasures, but the crowning glory of the 
season was after our labors were o'er and the fragrant hops were 
all stored away in the kilns to dry, we took one farewell dance to 
the music of our favorite band, "The Whitmore's," and, at a late 
hour in the morning, departed for our several homes, rich in health 
and also having added something to our financial resources, the 
sum being according to the nimbleness of our fingers, however. 
We reach Sherlnirne at nightfall and after some waiting for the 
stage, we emliark in the primitive manner of the inhabitants of 
this jiortion of the country, ere the iron horse awoke its echoes. If 
we had feared for our personal safety before, when at the dead hour 
of night the cars had rushed through the blackness of deep woods 
and rocky caverns, or when on board the s' earners, we had shud- 
dered at the thought of a fearful explosion, that if it did not im- 
mediately land us in eternity would leave us helpless and drowning 
in the cold water — , what wei-e our imaginings now as we jolted 
over the stony road with the galloping horses, now on the verge of 
a ravine whose depths on this cloudy night seemed intenninable ; 



IIEAKT (;]{f:KTING8. 75 

now toiling up some tedious hill, balafieed upon its top for a mo- 
ment and again dashing down its rough declivity or dai'ting over 
some rude bridge Avhose loose boards rose up as it' to otter an 
apology for its dilapidated state; these things we endured with only 
a whispered '"Oh!"' now and tlien by way of relief to our sur- 
charged feelings. Yet 1 can look back upon that seven miles ride 
with a degree of pleasure for at its termination I stepped under the 
roof that sheltered my nativity. 'Twas but a little hamlet where 
it rested, yet its picturesqueness could not be surpassed. Fortified 
on all sides by the stronghold of nature — her hills, guarded by files 
of forest giants — her trees, watered by the continued accumulation 
of the dew drops of heaven — her brooks and rills, inhabited by a 
peaceful God-fearing people, could one seek a more desirable spot 
in which to recuperate their expanded energies and throw off the 
fatigue consequent on a three weeks tour of the world? As the 
wheels of our vehicle rattle noisily over the gravelly road-bed they 
aroused the inmates of the little white cottages and lights appeared 
at the doors and windows and expeclUnt faces peered out into the 
darkness, for the good natured driver was always in readiness to 
perform en-ands for the more ambitious dwellers in this retired 
spot, and it was no unusual occurrence for a mysterious looldng 
package bearing the ear marks of a more pretentious railroad town, 
to be dropped into waiting hands and was sure to awaken the 
curiosity of the next neighbor. On the arrival of the stage coach, 
this evening, the bundles took a human shape and evidently 
were expected for no sooner did the rumble of the wheels cease, till 
a fair young face stood in the doorway and the most musical of 
voices gave us greeting — such a greeting as is found outside of all 
the shams of fashionable life — a heart-greeting that slunes from 
the eyes and such warm clasps of the hands that truthfulness lies 
in each pressure. A bright, warm fire shed a glow of comfoi-t 
around the spacious living room, and to our chilled limbs was most 
acceptable. The very air seemed to be filled with welcome written 
by the fingers of the firelight. The cheeiy clock ticked out the 
hour of nine as we ate our vesjier meal in the very room where my 
infant lite first received sustenance from the parent breast. Dear 
mothers! How much patience and suffering they endure for the 
sake of their offspring— suffering that is never understood till 
mature years bring its experience. The weariness attendant on the 
day's jouniey forbade nuich communion at that late hour, and we 



76 TWELVK STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

wen' shown to a warm sleeping iipartnuiit witli a downy bed most 
inviting-. I conkl close my weary eyes, but not to sleep. Consider- 
ing the eventful place, sleep must be courted and a true lover's 
wooing I gave it, but the thirty odd years of my life each came in 
as a witness for a hean"ng and my cause was on trial far into the 
night. How much of my career fell far short of my approbation, 
and how I longed to live over some of my youthful days that I 
might profit by the experience of after life; and yet I had no dread- 
ful misgivings of conscience I'or 1 felt that my faults lay upon the 
surface, while within, 1 carried a loving heaii and a will, though 
sometimes obstinate, disposed, in the main to perfect obedience to 
the mild dictations of my parents. As my head rested on the soft 
pillow I thought of my indulgent father whose years were number- 
ed a few months before 1 had reached the first decade of my life. 
His thin, silvery locks seemed again to curl around my fingers as I 
tenderly smoothed them away from his white forehead and lovingly 
kissed the dear face that was ever full of affection for his "little 
daughter." Sitting in my ctiamber window I could follow the old. 
oft trodden path that led to his pkue of business where he retailed 
the little stock of provisions necessary to supply the humltle wants 
of each faniilj' in and around that isolated handet, and measured, 
yard by yard, the bright prints and rich silks and bombazins that 
were the pride of old and young hearts, following fashion's train. 
And the sweet, patient face of my mother came back to me, and 1 
remembered well her resignation and trust in a Higher Power, 
when her earthly stay and sui)poi-t was taken from her. When in 
the prime of life, her ever busy hands had made tidy this little 
home and adorned it with all the skill of which she was capable. 
The attractions of her kitchen were its neatness and appetizing 
delicacies; those other parlor, its beauty and absence of all gaudi- 
ness. With a serenity of mind to be envied, she reigned queen 
over her household gods, beloved at home; respected abroad and no 
beggar departed from her door empty handed, and as I now kept 
nocturnal vigilance under the roof where she had cared for my 
many infantile wants, 1 thought it not improbable that the same 
spirit of wakefulness might be hovering over her couch miles and 
miles away in one of Wisconsin's shady glens and thoughts of her 
youngest bom, wandering i the old familiar places, were not 
absent from her vigils. The little town slumbered on so peace- 
fully. Most of its inhabitants were aged and with whitened locks, 



A POLAR NIGHT. ' 77 

but steady step awaited calmly the summons that should take them 
hence to another haven of perfected rest. Though this quiet burg-h 
was not noted for being erected on the spot where were fought the 
battles of our forefathers, yet in former times, when these aged 
people were full of youth and before so many of their companions 
lay down to their long sleep, it was periodically agitated by politi- 
cal strife and natural gossip, bom of its inland position and for 
which there was ni outlet. But wei'e this a polar night, the three 
hundred and fifty-four and one-third hours of its length would be 
none too long in which to recapitulate the joys and sorrows of the 
past, and nature's restorer came at last and with it oblivion to 
earthly ruminations. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

'RID AY morning was still dark with clouds and rain and we 
busied ourselves in re-arrangmg the much abused gannents 
in our trunks, givnig some of them a much needed bath to remove 
if possible some of "the clayey soil of the Keystone state that 
adhered with such tenaciousness. Voluble tongues kept pace the 
while with industrious hands as we converted ourselves into merry 
washerwomen. There was a fascination in the warm, sa,ponaceous 
suds and after three weeks of indolence, such vigorous exercise 
would promote digestion. Our appetites needed no awakening 
save that produced by those large, mealy potatoes so generously 
provided, and which we well appreciated after being treated to 
that soggy under -done vegetable we everywhere found at hotels. 
A potato to be eatable must have been made subject to sufficient 
he.it to cook it through, w.iich process invariably produces moali- 



78 TWKf,VK STATES AM) A KIMiDOM. 

nes.s. SiiKC >!eein<i: the bright array of ])atent cook stoves ami 
raiif^es at the ('entonnial, I have hopes that hereafter the travel- 
ing public will not be feastedC:*) on raw potatoes, but whether 
baked or boiled in their jackets, they will come to the table bear- 
ing some resemblanc(^ to the palataLile potato served at private 
dwellings. 

Columbus Center, uiy birthplace, is akin to the great metrop- 
olis of New York in as much as it has its " little church around 
the corner.'" Its members are Universalists and on the Sabbath, 
flock thitlier from over the hills and trom out the dells for miles 
around. This edifice siands just tu;ross the street from my early 
home, and thus was I born under the shadow of the house of 
prayer, and nourished under the droppings of the sanctuaiy. Once 
more I trod its broad aisles and sat in my father's pew cushioned 
by the hands of my mother. The mattress, with its old-fashioned 
covering was still in its plac(\ kept as a sacred relic of those who 
were gone. Again 1 took my accustomed place in the gallery 
where the choir was wont to riiise one harmonious voice in anthems 
of praise or chant a solemn re(iuiem over some one more forinnate 
than the others in having o'erstep})ed the Ijoundaiy between the 
two worlds ere life became a burden or sorrow clouded all joy. 
Where were my companions V Where the grey heads of the 
grandsires — where the toddling infants — where the middle-aged — 
where the pastors.-* Those still on earth, scattered like autumn 
leaves; the others garnered in heaven. My voice no longer dared 
to awaken the echoes of that holy place, but my heart thrilled 
with thoughts of th(^ past and not one precious face was forgotten. 
To me their images still occupied the same seats; the eloipient 
words of the insi)ired divine that ottered such consolation over 
my father's coffin, still lingered in my ears ftml the music of the 
choir still filled the air as the united worshi)i of heart and song 
went on. 1 seemed to hear anew the good old hymns of " Orion " 
and " Balerma " and infused with the inspiration of our beloved 
pastor I joined in his query: 

"While circling worlds shall onward move 
And tniths eternal shine. 

Shall 1 through heaven's Ijright cycle speed 
A human form, divine? "" 
Softly close the door and shut in tlu; echoes of that sunctuaiy 
I may never more awaken. Tread lightly adown those steps 



THAT GOOP OLD DOCTOn. 79 

where twenty years before gathered young men and nuiidens — 
my childhood companions whose youth, like mine, may come not 
again. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

#N the corner within range of the church-spire. dAvelt our 
family physician whose years numbered nearly three-fourths 
of a century, and whose experience with the sick and suffering 
embraced a pei'iod, to my certain knowledge, of over thirty years. 
My earliest remembered play-mate was his lovely daughter of the 
age of myself. When but scarcely entering the path of maiden- 
hood, the angels saw fit to make of her a companion, and father 
and mother were bereft of their daughter. The mother never 
fully recovered from the blow, and as I looked once more upon 
her sad face I saw that her " Maiy " was not yet forgotten. The 
dear old doctor had lost none of the buoyancy, that was said to be 
the secret of his success in his practice, and entertained us with a 
mix ure of mirth and logic peculiar with liim. Across the street 
from his home lived a beloved friend of my mother's and as she 
opened the door to the daughter of her cherished friend, she took 
me to her heart and gave me motherly kisses such as she had 
imprinted on my round face in the days of my babyhood. Her 
abundant white hair lay in waves and threatened to break out 
from the confines of her comb, into the charming ringlets of her 
early days. The black eyes had all the brilliancy of youth and 
her smile bore the sweetness of sorrow and resignation. Dear 
Aunt Sally ! even unto old age are you handsome and ' ' unspotted 
from the world." My life indeed would !je enr hed could I live 
within reach of your couns 4 and receive the light of your smile 
and profit by your example. May your life, whose purity is as the 



80 TWKIA'K STATES AM) A KI^■(iIK)^r. 

ciystal waters of the sintrinii' lirooklet at. your door, flow peacefully 
on foi- years yet to come, ainl may the bn'i^htiiess of your example 
remain nndimmed lon<>' after j'our ears shall have become deaf to 
the music of the little stream as it dashes alonf;: its narrow bed. 
Another Friday is with the past and at eventide I sit in the parlor 
of our hostess, and, accompanied by the piano, sing a dirge over 
the death of my childhood, my father and my youth's companions. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

^^ATURDAY, October seventh, was a dismal morning with 
j^^ its chilly wind and driving rain, but our projected tours 
could not be postponed, and after we have a warm eomljat with 
the smoothing iron for an hour or so, the faithful family horse is 
brought to the door, and undismayed by the unpropitious elements 
we drive over the hills for a day's visit with old friends. Such a 
warm welcome as we received everywhere is indescribable, and 
quite enough to keep our spirits up and hearts aglow despite the 
drenching storm that might well intimidate a more interpid trio. 
Elderly gentlemen and their honest wives embrace us cordially 
while the young Lambs of the flock are all innocence and sprightli- 
ness. There seemed to l)e a dirth of young men, and I do not 
remember to have seen but one young, immarried man during my 
four day's stay in Columbus. This Saturday's dinner table fairly 
groaned under its abundance of food and there was nothing to 
disturb our happiness but the thought of the impending parting. 
After music and song the good bye's were spoken and we departed 
feeling that we had left unsaid much that we intended to speak, 
but gratified with the sense of having been remembered evcm unto 
the years of womanhood. Sunday morn, October 8th, there was a 
fall of snnwHakes, prognosticators of the drifts of winter that were 



K v'-l'Y VALI.EY. 81 

to till evciy lio'.low till (artli is one vast sheet of snow and the 
h'vel roiids have no boundaries for the fence-posts are encased 
in white mantles and their heads arc no Avhere to be seen. 
The faithful horse is again at the door, and, protected by water- 
1 roof, blankets and ranbrella we bid defiance to wind and 
■weather and journej' southward. A half mile's travel brings us 
to the grave of my father. Everything about the burial-i^lace 
besi'Oke neglect and decay, but the words inscribed on his tomb- 
stone "He lives in memory," are still true, for, as green as the 
myrtle I plucked from his grave, is the remembrance of oar 
paternal ancestor in the hearts of his children. We continue our 
journey for a distance of five miles when we reach the lovely 
village of New Berlin, with its wide streets and rows of shade 
trees and homelike dwellings, many of which combine elegance 
with simplicity. The joy of again meeting the dear aged face I 
sought, must be left for the next world, and disappointed we shape 
our course north-ward through the valley of the winding Una- 
dilla, each curve of the road displajang much sequestered loveli- 
ness, undisturbed by noise of steam or din of cities. After three 
miles more of travel we reach the spot above all others I longed 
most to see, not for its splendor, but "Fondest affection that binds 
me to thee, my old home, my dear happy home." When I was but 
five years of age my lather retired from mercantile life and 
invested his means in land. I thus became the daughter of a 
granger, though no such charming, fanciful appellation concealed 
the honorable avocation of farming in those good old daj^s. And 
now with the first familiar sight of this dear " Happy Valley, " 
my childhood came back to me and I was again a merry, romping 
child. Bjed to country life, I became one of nature's daughters, 
choosing my mates from among her true children; her leafy forest 
trees, her butter-cups and daisies, and golden dandelions, her 
clover blossoms, her limpid streams; all these iii summer. In 
winter I reveled in ice and snow and her barren trees were gaunt 
specters for the play of my imagination. Twenty years since I 
had bidden a tearful adieu to the old homestead. Did I find it 
much changed ? Yes, there was a change. The Aorfy Avas there — 
the spirit had flown. Though this cot in the valley I loved, still 
nestled under the hillside, and the little stream went murmuring 
onward to the river and thence to the sea; though cattle lowed 
upon the hilltops and the strong work horses renewed their vitality 
11 



8^ T\VKI,VK STATES AND A KIXGOOM. 

from the freslily niowii luciKldw lands, tliey wi^re not the same 
that years ago answered to my calls with looks of attection in tiieir 
mild eyes and that ate froni the store 1 so willingly set for them. 
Parents, brother, sisters, friends — all gone, and I gazed as doth a 
mounier o'er the dead, upon what once I fancied would be mine 
to enjoy perpetually. Alas! the precious soil was cultivated by 
strange hands. The old rooms that once echoed our laughter and 
songs, were now occupied and cared for by those to me unknown, 
and as I peered into each familiar corner there appeared to me 
ghosts of earlier years which my imagination clotlied with gar- 
ments ancient and unique, a supply ot which was ever kept in 
that glorious old place for solitude and rubbish, the gaiTct. With 
that word comes retrospection. With the bright sunshine of each 
May, came the yearly renovation of this dusty place, whose ceiling 
was festooned \vith many a cobweb; whose slanting w^alls were 
adorned with various weapons of domestic warfare; whose floor 
was covered with huge chests filled with wann, winter blankets. 
In one comer was a set of i)ewter dishes which with unuse were 
given to rust that doth corrupt. There was a heavy iron tea-kettle 
which my imagination always placed over a roaring fire in my 
grand-mother's kitchen before the days of modern cook stoves 
and the perplexities of choosing base- burners. How I used to 
sing as 1 brushed the dust from these relics of my predecessors, 
and the sound of my voice reverberated among the rafters and 
frightened the verj* rats from their dens and they went scampering 
and squealing to more remote comers while I went on with the 
rejuvenating of their winter quarters. I was always full of the 
cares of a mimic household, the concreteness of its members being 
made up of round pumpkins and crooked-necked squashes in 
summer, and rags and Viran the year througli. But one china doll 
ever came in my possession, and her smoothe, handsome physiog- 
nomy was far too nice for every day wear consequently I clung 
tenaciously to a huge rag-baby weighing some eight pounds, 
which was never griped with colic, for her digestive apparatus was 
of bran. Her cuticle, formed of the strongest muslin, never 
underwent that seven year's ordeal peculiar to childhood, that 
brings with it the sublime happiness of scratching, the sole cure 
for which is fire and brimstone. Her diet was of sufficient al)stem- 
iousness to suit the most persistent (Jrahamite. Her hair never 
gr.jw nuich and as such a thing as jute was unheard of in those 



MIMIC IIOUSKWIFKRY. 83 

early days, ami false locks only worn by very aged people, 1 had 
to conceal her hereditary baldness with white lace caps which 
added to the attractiveness of her inki/ black eyes and cheeks rosy 
as the juice of juniper hemes. Such fancy toilets as were designed 
especially for her use would drive Worth distracted with envy. 
Size indicated nothing relative to the ages of my family. Curious 
people seldom had their inquisitiveness gratified when they sought 
to pry into my domestic arrangements. It was a. model family, 
fluctuating numericallj^ between six and a dozen, of all shapes and 
sizes, over which 1 was supreme head and ruler, and none dared 
question my management and the piu-fect control under which I 
held my willing subjects. Happy childhood, each child monarch 
of a realm over which he reigns with all the tyranny of a fabled 
giant, the story-book makes them acquainted with. That fell 
destroyer of domestic fowls, the peeps, made such havoc among 
my pet turkeys and chickens, and all superfluous kittens met with 
such untimely deaths by strangulation in the wash-tub, that it 
necessitateil ray choosing a burial place all silent and beautiful, 
befitting a necropolis. I selected a site in one corner of the 
orchard on ground gently sloo]>ing, near a rickety coni-crib — an 
emblem of decay — and noted more for remoteness th.in artistic 
beauty. A pearly brook chanted a requiem in the fence corners 
of my grave-yard and the old apple trees dropped their leaves in 
autumn as a winding sheet for the dead, while the ripe fruit rolled 
to the bottom of the hill, pausing not till it reached the stone wall, 
a solid barrier, preventing them from crossing the road and con- 
tinuing their course to the i-iver. But I must bid memory depart 
and recall the scenes of my journey as they occuiTed. I followed 
the well remembered path up the hillside and climbed the old 
familiar rock, upon whose summit I was wont to percii mj^self at 
the close of the summer days when I went in quest of the dear old 
Gows. There was no boundary to my vision till it encompassed 
many miles to the north and south. Its eastern and western 
boundary was abruptly terminated by hills one-half mile apart. 
This Sabbath day the clouds met with a momentary disperse- 
ment and the sun bathed Shacktown pond in a flood of amber 
light, and revealed the forests clothed with all the variegated 
hues of Autumn. Shacktown, though unromantic in name, was 
famous for luscious blackberries that grew there in great abund- 
ance, but after their gathering, so dense were the briars that 



84 TWEIA'E STATKS AND . KIVGDOM. 

one's g'lirnii'nts were iipt to be tattered and torn liki:^ a V(nitable 
" shack," as tramps were then denominated. I watched the deep 
river windin<>- hke the letter "S " in its boundary of our m^'adow 
and I said to mj-self, here I have raked the frajfrant hay — there 
dropijed the yellow kernels of corn — here gathered the sweet, red 
apples; there the bountifully yielding potatoes. Some spots were 
reminders of childhood's griefs; others of extremest joy. I 
seemed to have lived years in the two hours spent in roaming over 
this, to me, hallowed ground. But when I was seated at the 
dinner table standing as it did in the same old spot, seated in my 
father "s accustomed place, a great longing came over me to be 
re-united to my kindred, united just as we used to be, and it wa^ 
with the utmost eftbrt that I suppressed the sacred tears I cai'ed 
not to shed before the eyes of strangers. Farewell, my little valley 
home! Childhood was the charm that bound me to thee and that 
charm is broken. 1 have never fancied a home upon the hilltops. 
I want to dwell at their base and receive shelter and protection 
from wind and storm; but I may nevermore hope for a fruition of 
my longings. Though the light of the Orient crowned my infancy, 
the spirit of progress is within me and the far outstretching plains 
lure me on. Already they have ushered in. and thus far protected 
my womanhood and the remainder of my life, like the setting 
sun, must declare westward. And now before I close my eyes, 
perhaps forever, upon the sweet content and unsurpassed loveliness 
resting in this secluded vale, 1 will make an everlasting sepulcher 
fo the early griefs and joys, struggles and achievements of my 
youth. Some I will cast into the deep, deep waters of the 
Unadilla; for some 1 will dig a grave at the roots of the sacharine 
maple that used to pour forth its sweetest sap to moisten my young 
lips; some shall, rest on the hilltop; some in the valley; some at 
the brooklet's side; but for every wayward deed, duties omitted 
and sins committed, let me dig a grave wide and deep under my 
mothers bedroom window where 1 have so often rocked my inani- 
mate progeny, and there in deep penitence make a sacred inter- 
ment, that when future trials and temptations beset me, I may 
think on this little mound covering my misdeeds and childish de- 
partures from rectitude, and profiting by dearly bought experience, 
avoid the necessity of a future erection of a maussoleum over hopes 
blasted and opportunities wantonly neglected. But Oh! the holiest 
remembrances of my youth, those early lessons of piety and mo- 



CHKNANGO COUNTY. 85 

rality made efficacious by the exemplary conduct of my parents, 
let me cany ihi-m ever with me, antl when the sun of my life shall 
set, to rise no more, may the effect of abiding- by such pi-ecepts and 
example, surround my bier with a halo of sweet and tender recol- 
lections. Farewell! farewell! 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

^JM W, county of my birth, Chenang-o, is separated from OtsegO 
^^i^ county on the p]ast by the Unadilla river. Its rocks and 
hills and fertile valleys make a diversity of scenery more pleasant 
to look upon with an artistic eye, than with ag-ricultural intentions. 
What is once produced from the stony soil, is preserved with great 
pains and the least of its products is not allowed to go to waste. 
Every stalk of corn is carefully cut and shocked and after being- 
husked, the golden ears are stowed away with scarcely the loss of 
a single kernel, and the stalks are properly stacked for winter fod- 
der for the cattle. The pro\adent farmer always has shelter for his 
animals during the cold season, and no shivering, half-starved 
brutes are seen leaning against an apology for a barn, constructed 
of four perpendicular posts and four horizontal beams on which are 
laid loose boards covered with wild prairie grass — the model stable 
of the West. Such catastrophie's are not infrequent as the over- 
turning of a loaded wagon on one of the steep hillsides under 
cultivation, but though the result may be a complete demolition of 
vehicle and grain and an extinguishment of the life of the horses, 
such land disasters are counterbalanced by the natural longevity of 
the inhabitants of a climate abounding in a salubrious, invigoi'ating 
atmosplicre. The little village of South Edmeston, Otsego county, 
New York, consists of a. few pretentious dwellings, a hotel, a store 
or two, a small school house which answers the place of seminaiy, 



86 TWKl.VK STATKS ANO A KINliDOM. 

cluirch, lecture room or opera; a romantic old mill and an inevi- 
table blacksmith's shop. This was our nearest town and trading 
point and is situated " over the river " a* we were wont to locate 
it, and was a mile and a half from oiir f;irm. Crossing the beatiful 
Unadilla from the West, we come upon this lovely nook, fit resort 
for Summer's fairies iind Winter's frost kings. The Eastern hills, 
covered with beech, pine and chestmit, tower as on impregnable 
fortress over this little village as if to protect it from Turkish inva- 
sion. During the period of years from 1S50 to 185G I remember it 
as a place of men-iment and also many an intellectual feast. The 
weather-beaten school house, (which was out of our district and 
therefore only frequented by me as a visitor) often rung with the 
well-merited applause given the miniature actors as they in turn 
represented a Caesar, a William Tell, a Deacon Homespun. Here 
were held de')ates participated in by our local intellectual lights 
which were of no inferior order. The eloquence of T. J. Smith en- 
tranced his hearers during a course of lectures given under this 
lowly roof. Though his voice to earth is silent, I feel that he still 
moves on in that bright Beyond, his teachings did more to 
unfold to me, than those of any other minister of the gospel I have 
since listened to. I remember his promises to watch over the 
weary ones of earth. Have our giant doubts deterred him from a 
fulSllra^ut of those vows, or is he silently keeping vigil over our 
lives an 1 waiting to receive us in that better land whose glories he 
so well knew how to protray. Aft<n- the dream of life is ended 
shall we sit at his feet au'l learn the wisdom all the intervening 
years of heavenly companionship have taught him V T tarry over 
such congenial memories. I must hasten from this rural village in 
whose infancy some hypochondriac christened " Snailtown, " and 
recrossing the river ascend the Morgan hill nearly a half a mile in 
length. At its summit we pause and give our steed an opportunity 
to regain his bi*eath, while we take a bird's-eye view of the glorious 
landscape below. After our exclamations of delight are exhausted, 
there is a moment of silent leavetaking of all this beauty so familiar 
to my youth. The pictiire will be forever retained, vividly en- 
stamped on my mind as it is, and tendeidy, tearfully will I hang it 
away in the gallery of memory where frequent reflection is a bar to 
moth and dust that efface with their touch. A last, a fond good- 
bye ! We gently urge our steel a few rods further over the now 
level road, and the dear, old, red school house is before us, faded 



OUR ALMA-MATEK. 87 

with age but havins? carefully preserved the marks made by the 
idle hands of refractory juveniles, my companions in the race for 
eiiidition. Here in days past my Ijare feet made their impress in the 
dust lying at the side of the broad step. The beechnut grove just 
across the road made deepest shade all the day through for my 
play house, strong with an unbroken wall of stone, siive where we 
effected an entrance. The doors were small sticks laid from stone 
to stone and must be lifted when ingress or egress M^as wanted, and 
in no wise permitted we a visitor or intruder to step over the barrier 
of twigs — emblem of the portals to our domiciles. Broken earthen- 
ware was patiently carried from home, that our cupboards might 
not be. wanting in a display of costly china. Deep holes were dug 
in the ground for celhiTs and luscious mandrakes stored therein in 
lieu of potatoes, 'i'he mandrake leaf served as umbrellas and 
beechnuts and crinkle-root were choice edibles purchased at the 
nearest grocery, whicli was kept in the trunk of a huge tree that 
had been torn up by its roots leaving a deep hollow for the young 
merchants to stand in and deliver us ihe articles necessary for such 
mimic housekeeping. That umbrageous wood has been devasted 
by the hand of man, and only black stumps stand as tombstones to 
mark the place of our play ground. Do not think that play was 
the acme of our endeavors. Ah! no. There were teachers fierce 
and masters kind that g-mirded our educational interests and if 
there was no perfection in studies, there was no recreative indul- 
gence. As I stood on tiptoe and gazed through the windows at the 
familiar desks and closets, I almost fancied I saw again the rosy 
faces of my mates in their old places, and that my own little red 
hood and warm shawl and loaded cUnner basket were lying on the 
shelves as of old. I regretted that the door was fastened for I 
longed once more to step under the roof of this Alma Mater. We 
are prone to think our past held all the happiness possible to youth; 
but perchance the urchins of to-day whose minds are undergoing 
the formative process that one day shall lead to great knowledge, 
enjoy as keenly the gi-een, grassy knolls, those famous places for 
sports and games once our own, and are as pi-oud over their hard 
earned laurels as they stand at the head of their class, as were we 
in the halcyon days when to be a man or woman seemed a far off 
crowning glory of life. Let us leave children to the blissful hallu- 
cination that the power and strength of manhood are sufficient to 
overcome all obstacles and that for full-grown hands there are no 



OO TWKLVK STATES AXD A KI.NODOM. 

hard tasks to perforin; for tlic feet no [ntfalls; for the body no 
weariness; for the brain no doubts and denials; for the conscience 
no tortiiriners. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

'ONDAY, October ninth, the weather was still dismal, but 
the rain had ceased. In the afternoon we visit a dear 
schoolmate of mine, who o-ave me u cordial greeting', and presided 
over her cosy home in the country with the ease and quietness of 
her mother, who used to provide so bountifully and willing-Iy for 
our childish wants at those happy timea in the long ng-o when I 
went from school to pass the night with her two black-eyed 
daughters. Early Tuesday morning our trunks were repacked, 
strapped and ready for their final destination — home. The stage is 
bidden to halt and after many I'Ost good-bye's we retrace our way 
to Sherburne. The air being veiy chilly we were glad when at 
last we were seated in the warm cars speeding our way back to 
Utica which we reach a little after midday. After a short walk in 
that neat, quiet city, we reach Steuben Park, and ringing the door- 
bell at No. 12, we are ushered into the office of a portly doctor who 
but for his smile of welcome and recognition, I could scarce believe 
was once ihe slim, handsome young schoolmaster in our district, 
who, while reigning monarch at the red school house, tunied the 
heads of the older gii-ls with his sparkling black eyes, and initiated 
the younger ones, myself among the number, into the mysteries of 
physiological lore, the basis of the profession he afterward chose. 
His trials, as a neophyte in his professional career, are over. 
Success has crowned his efforts and now with a firm belief in the 
efficacy of the homeopathic treatment, he goes about restoring 
the sick to hi^alth by means of his mild panacea's. His wife was 



TIIK (iLACIAL rEKIOD. 89 

tlie favored student at the old, red school -house, while he was on 
duty there. Her womanhood has fulfilled the promise of girlhood. 
T think I never saw a more beautiful maiden. Such brown eyes 
under a low, broad forehead, curling auburn hair, rosy cheeks, a 
mouth that could smile sweetly with approbation or curl its red lips 
with scorn at those going contrary to her principles of right. But 
the charm was not wholly in this physical loveliness. There was 
an intellectual beauty enstaniped on every feature, that spoke of a 
mind stored with im]ierishable wealth. She gave us greeting to 
her stately home with mingled pleasure and dignity in her manner. 
We were shown to our room and after exchanging our travelling 
garments for less dusty clothing, we descended to the dining-room 
where a palatable dinner was served. Two lovely children enli- 
vened the board with their presence. The repast ended, we were 
.conducted to the parlors above, where fluent conversation was the 
order of the evening. Wednesday our host procured a carriage 
and took us around the city of Utica, which is situated on the 
South bank of the Mohawk river and is noted for its extensive 
manufactures and for hoing the location of the State Lunatic Asy- 
lum, the lovely grounds of which we drove over. Though the day 
was dark and chilly the ride was an enjoyable one and will long be 
remembered. The dwelling of this M^orthy physician is a model 
one in every particular, and it was with deep regret that we left its 
hospitable roof, and, satchels in hand, accompanied by our hostess, 
wended our way to the New York Central depot to take the train 

due at ten o'clock p. m. The last adieu spoken, Mrs. D .and 

myself seated ourselves in the depot, endowed, as we supposari our- 
selves to be, with all the patience of that afflicted, biblical individ- 
ual of boil notoriety. Alas ! our stock of that Christian virtue ran 
low ere we heard the whistle of the engine at three o'clock in the 
morning. After five hours of weary waiting, the train of twenty 
cars rolled slowly into the station and the light of Thursday mor- 
ning, Oct. r2th, was dawning yet but dindy. The cars were heavily 
laden and most of them being without stoves we experienced all 
the frozen horrors of the glacial period occurring long ages ago, 
when this earth was under the hands of the Infinite, being molded 
preparatory to becoming a fit habitation for man. A lady, travel- 
ling with a bird, was obliged to throw a shawl over its cage to pro- 
tect it from frost. The breath of the passengers congealed on the 
window panes forming a cryptography known only to -Tack Frost. 
12 



90 TWEIA'K STATES AND A KINGDOJf. 

One daring gontlonian circulated a petition which we all signed 
(save those perhaps whose fing-ers were too much stiffened with 
cold, to hold a pencil). The article was designed to be presented 
for publication and set forth the neglect of the railroad ofKcials to 
provide for our comfort. I am in doubt about its having achieved 
the purpose for which it was drafted. As soon as the sun shone out 
with sufficient warmth, I thawed out a Uttle arid was enabled to 
partake of the lunch with which we had provided ourselves. On 
this route we passed through Syracuse, one of the largest cities in 
the state of New York, having a ijopulation of 55,003. It contains 
the most extensive salt manufactories in the United States, and we 
read that it is famous as the meeting-place of political and other 
conventions. Batavia, '261 miles from Albany, is the site of the 
State Institution for the Blind. Rochester is situated on both sides 
of the Genessee river, seven miles from its mouth in Lake Ontario. 
It is said to be a lovely city. We reach East Buffalo about noon, 
and after an hour's waiting take the Erie railroad for Niagara Falls, 
distant twenty-three miles. The cars stop on the American side, 
and stepping out on the platform I beheld a tall individual with a 
most melancholy, disappointed look that at once aroused my sym- 
pathies, and rushing up to him, I began to offer words of consola- 
tion. He embraced me warmly, all travel -stained as T was, and 
began to utter something about my being his Ruth, and I hastened 
to infomi him after the Bible plan, " Whither thou goest, I will 

go." I beckoned to Mrs. D ., and gathering up our luggage 

we three took an omnibus and crossing Niagara river on the sus- 
pension bridge we soon arrived at the Prospect House on the 
Canada side. But pardon me. I have neglected to introduce 
you to our escort, now smiling and happy and — my husband. We 
soon satisfied our gastronomical wants at the rate of a dollar per 
head. There was nothing palatable about that dinner but the 
cakes and confectioneiy. When it was ended we sought the Falls 
and realized all that had been said and written m praise of this 
wonderful cataract. We lean over the cliffs as far as our courage 
will allow, and wonder what fascination there is in the mighty rush 
and roar that lures people to leap into its foaming depths. Is not 
the love of life paramount to overcome the temptation of self-de- 
struction V Is there no power in the sublimity of such a scene to 
counteract the delusion that there is rest beyond an act so sinful? 
As I listen to the awful roar and gaze upon the torrent of rusliing 



THUOUGII THE KINGDOM. 91 

Witters like a mass of f,^reen, molten glass, where it is deepest, I am 
charmed and awed and lost to all else about me till I feel the grasp 
of the strong hand of my newly found partner who leads me up the 
hillside that we may take a survey of all this grandeur from a lofty 
height. At evening we cross the suspension bridge on foot in or- 
der to get a more protracted view. At dark we take the cars again 
for East Buifalo where we wait in a crowded depot till a late hour 
for the train that is to take us to Detroit, on the Grand Trunk 
railway. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

'RID AY moniing, October 13th, finds us whirling through 
Canada, apparently a barren region of coimtiy with but 
few habitations, but abounding in tall straight trees, set so thickly, 
they reminded me of a hop-yard in spring-time after the setting- of 
the poles. At Port Huron we crossed the St. Clair river. The cars 
are run onto a ferry-boat and while I thought we were making a 
very tedious stop we were being ferried gently over the river. 
Sometime during the jouniey of the night previous, our old friends 

Mr. & Mrs. B . re-joined us and we were happy to see their 

faces again and leam that they had been enjoying themselves 
among friends residing in the lovely region of Rochester. We 
get a glimpse of Lake Huron lying calmly in the sunUght. One 
would never imagine its hidden waves lashed to the fury of 
destruction. That portion of Michigan through which we passed 
before reaching Detroit, resembles the country we saw in Canada. 
We arrive at Detroit about noon and are huddled into a smaU 
waiting-room under the depot roof, and a policeman wamingly 

suggests pick-pockets and watching of our baggage. Mrs. D , 

my husband and myself take a short stroll along an unpreposs- 
essing street near the river, but we are too tii'ed to appreciate 

anything in nature and joining Mr. & Mrs. B . at the depot, 

we concluded to take the afternoon train for Jackson, thereby 
making a break in the tedious waiting, so that it should not all be 
endured at one place. That portion of country is not noted for 



92 TWEIA'E STATES AND A KINGDOM. 

much beauty till >v(> i-each Jackson. There we aQ-ain part com- 
pany with Mr. & Mrs. B ., thoh" intention being to visit other 

friends in Michigan. We partake of a much relished supper 
served in the depot buihling. and about nine o'clock in the evening 
we take the Michigan Central railroad and passing through the 
southern part of Michigan, reach Chicago about six o'clock, A. M., 
Saturday morning, after a long night's ride. Occupying the seat 
behind us was our acquaintance of the petition notoriety, from 
Utica to Buffalo. Once at Chicago, the anxiety attendant on 
feeling that we are almost at home takes possession of us and 

leaving Mrs. D . to the hospitalities of her friends we depar-t 

on the Illinois Central railroad, iibout nine A. M. While the car 
wheels whir and rattle, awakening the echoes of the vast prairies, 
we will take a review of Chicago, the principal city of Illinois. 
"Within forty years it has grown from a small Indian trading 
station to the position of the metropolis of the North-west and 
the greatest railway centre on the Continent. It is situated on the 
west shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Chicago river. The 
site of the business portion is fourteen feet above the lake. It 
was originally much lower, but has been filled up from three to 
nine feet since 185(i. The city stands on the dividing ridge 
between the basins of the Mississippi and the St. Lawrence, is 
surrounded by prairie stretching several hmidred miles south, 
west and north. Chicago river and its branches afford a water 
frontage of thirty-eight miles of which twenty-four are improved, 
without including the lake front, on which an outer harber is now 
in process of construction. The city extends north and south 
along the lake about eight miles, and west from the lake about 
five miles. The river divides the city into three districts known as 
the North, South and West Divisions which are connected by 
thirty-three bridges and two stone tunnels under the river bed, 
costing $400,000 and $549,000, The streets are generally eighty 
feet wdde and many of them from three to seven miles long. The 
first permanent settlement of Chicago was made in 1804, during 
which Fort Dearborn was built by the United States government. 
It was abandoned in 1812, rebuilt in 1816 and finally demolished in 
1856. At the close of 1880 Chicago contained twelve houses and 
three " country " residences in Madison Street, with a population 
of about one hundred. Local estimates placed the population in 
1875 at 400,000." In October, 1871, Ch cago was the scene of a 



AK IRISH BOVINE. 9:5 

terrible conflag-ration commencing Sunday evening', October 8th, 
in a small bam on DeKoven Street, in the south part of the West 
Division. The rumor ran that Mrs. O'Leary had a cow, and that 
bovine had a refractory hind foot, which, fonning a coalition 
with a lighted kerosene lamp so puffed up with gas that it was on 
the verge of Ijursting of its own volition, setting aside the velocity 
and friction of the hoof, caused a combustion of animal and min- 
eral matter, whose effect is unparalleled in all past ages. As 
neither the cow nor the lamp have since been heard from, is it 
asking too much of human credulity to believe that the two, small 
satallites of Mars, lately discovered, are other than those two 
unfortunate earth-objects, now made heavenly bodies, revolving 
in space; the one a paradise full of the "milk of human kind- 
ness;" the other, since the original Hades is lost to the sight of 
our more progressive divines, developed into a fieiy region of 
ever consuming petroleum, a fit, final repository for the wicked, 
whose punishment shall be eternal, saith the Lord? The "Origin 
and Destiny of Man." is a theme that agitates the minds of the 
deepest thinkers. The origin and destiny of two soulless objects 
that can cause a conflagration of two day's duration, and whose 
smoke arose over the ruins for months afterward, may well incite 
us to speculation on the animate and inanimate forces of nature. 
But to return to first principles. There were over seventeen 
thousand buildings destroyed in that fire; 98,500 persons made 
homeless, and about two hundred killed. The total loss was esti- 
mated to be $190,000,000 of which over $40,000,000 were recovered 
in insurance. Many Insurance Companies failed and thus the 
loss was damaging to city and country alike. Business soon 
revived and the indefatigable energy of the merchants soon placed 
them in extemporized buildings where trade went on as before the 
calamity. The new buildings are far superior to those bunied, 
and the vestiges of the fire have departed. July Mth, 1S74, 
another fiery blast swept over sixty acres of the city, in its veiy 
heart and about four milUon dollars of property were consumed. 
The commerce of Chicago ranks second to New York. It has the 
greatest grain and stock market in the world. The hotels are 
unequaled. The Palmer House is of iron and brick, and fire- 
proof. The Grand Pacific is built of stone and is six stories high. 
Wabash Avenue contains the finest residences. A new Court 
House is being erected at an estimated cost Sf two million dollars. 



94 TVVKLVK STATES AND A KIXODOXf. 

The Chamber of Commerce is one of the finest buildings of the 
kind in the world. Here meets the Board of Trade and the 
wrang'lings of its members ai'e said to surpass in noise, the <i:abble 
of an old-fashioned quilting party. An enchanting place is 
McVicker's Theatre. There have I witnessed the tragic acting of 
Booth as Richard 111, and Joe Jefferson in Rip VanWinkle. 
Hooley's is a smaller Theater, but very beautiful, and there I saw 
the liandsome Lawrence Barrett in the Merchant of Venice. We 
read that there are about one hundred and eighty churches in Chi- 
cago. I attended High Church where the service Ls chanted. 
The ceremony is wanting in sacredness conducted in that manner 
and the Episcopal service is really impressive, I think, when it is 
read. At Dearborn Observatoiy there is a Clark refractory teles- 
cope, one of the largest in the world. There are six medical Col- 
leges in Chicago, the most noted of which is Rush Medical College, 
founded in 1S42. I was charmed with Lincoln Park, with its 230 
acres beautifully laid out; its five miles of drives and walks; its 
quiet after tlie heat of the city. Union Park contains seventeen 
acres and the expenditures, thereon are said to be $100,000. Tlie 
Water Works are a sight worth visiting, with the huge engines 
revolving and shining like silver. When one has cUmbed the V-^O 
feet necessary to reach the top of the tower, he is naturally too 
much out of breath to appreciate the fine view of lake and city, 
till he has shut his eyes for a moment to keep out the vast 
expanse awaiting inspection. The tunnel was begun in 1864 
and completed in 1866, costing over !ii:U5,000. There are forty 
artesian wells in the city. A certain spiritual medium pro- 
phesied in 1864 that oil would be found at the intersection of 
Chicago and Western Avenues, but although being a false 
prophet, great good was evolved as the prophecy led to the 
sinking of the first two wells, one 911 the other 694 feet deep. 
The Union Stock Yards comprise 345 acres, of which one hundred 
are in pens, and have thu-ty-one miles of drainage, seven miles of 
streets and alleys, 2,:)00 gates, and costs $1,675,000. There are 
fifteen grain elevators in the city. Pork packing is conducted on 
scientific plans, and the squeals of a lively pig are lost to earth in 
the twinkling of an eye. The Tivoli Carden is the place for choice 
refreshments and an induction into the arts of table _ coquetry. 
The Exposition building is of iron and glass, and is situated m 
Lake Park. It is l)ut oiii' gem in a ci'own of jewels compared to 
the spacious structure of the Centennial Exposition. 



THE LAST CHANGE. 



CHAPTER XXVIl. 

#N reaching Gilman, distant from Chicag-o about seventy-five 
miles, we make a short stop at the RedfieUl Hotel while we 
Ijrush the dust from our garments and endeavor to make ourselves 
something Uke presentable before reaching home and friends. As 
we set foot on board the T. P. & W. train once more, we exclaim 
with thanfulness, "this is our last change of cars." When the 
conductor asked for my ticket, I made the request that the last 
fragment — the heading — be left with me as a souvinor of the event- 
ful year 1876. For us there are no more adieux — nothing but 
greetings await us as the train speeds us swiftly but safely — home. 
We are reminded of our long absence by being asked if we wish to 
be shown to a hotel on alighting on the platform at our station. 
Have we grown a century older? No; the hotel has changed hands 
in our absence and the porter mistakes us for some distinguished 
travelers from the Eastern Continent, no doubt being impressed 
with our foreign air. We inform him that we own a hotel in this 
thriving village and with a puzzled comitenance he leaves us to the 
tender mercies of our own servants, and thc>/ being none other than 
our two selves, go as inclination bid, each serving the other with a 
right good will, dwelling together through the mercy of God and 
lo\'ing kindness. The first arms around my neck were those ot my 
mother, she having departed from Wisconsin a few days previous 
to our arrival in Illinois. Her blue eyes were full of affection and 
pride as I gave her a synopsis of my travels and delivered to her 
the messages of love and remembrance of which her companions 
in the East had made me the bearer. I told her of the hearts yet 
true and tender — of the many landmarks still unchanged, of the 
lonely grave of our father — of how high the hills towered — how 
green were their pines; of the sheltering rocks, of how the brooks 
sang; of how her birthplace, just across the Unadilla from our old 
home, still slept in the shadows of the chestnut tree under whose 
branches she played when a child. Tears and smiles went alter- 



96 T\VELVE STATES AND A KIXGDOM. 

nately as I recounted all these things yet so vi\dd in her mind. 
Dear, precious mother! May your life be longf spared to your chil- 
dren to whose homes your presence brings hg'ht and cheer! Next 
came the embrace of a sister whose kindness is unceasing, and 
dear, little, brown-eyed, auburn-haired liUy, with a sprinkling of 
some of the same naughty freckles that mar the features and tran- 
quility of the aunt who loves her best. The tall, rosy-cheeked 
brother, though less demonstrative by far, and teemmg with classic 
lore, came in for a greeting whose warmth was only to be indulged 
in after long absence. Home! Let the four letters be engraved in 
gold — encircled with costly diamonds and emiched by all precious 
gems. What word more sweet; what more ^the embodiment of 
rest and peace. Without homes we are miserable wanderers 
seeking contentment and finding it not. Let us make our homes 
sacred repositoi'ies of loving kindness, true affection and implicit 
trust, for having these three, a world of happiness is ours to enjoy 
here below, and above, a heavenly mansion already prepared for 
our acceptance. 

■' This earth hath treasures fair and bright, 

Deep buried in her caves; 
And ocean hideth many a gem 

Neath its blue and curling waves. 
Yet, not within its bosom dark 

Or 'neath its dazzling foam. 
Lies there a treasure equaling 

A world of love at home." 

■ ' True sterling happiness and joy 

Are not with gold alloyed, 
Nor can they give a pleasure like 

A merry, home fireside. 
I envy not the man who dwells 

In lordly hall or dome. 
If midst those splendors he hatli not 

A world of love at home." 

"The friends whom time hath proved sincere, 

"Tis they alone can bring 
A sure relief for hearts that droop 

Neath sorrows heavy wing. 
Though care and sorrow may be mine 

As down life's path I roam, 
I'll heed it not rf still I have 

A world of love at home." 












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